West Coast Seeds

Black Cherry tomato seeds produce hardy, vigorous vines loaded with gorgeous purple to mahogany brown cherry tomatoes 2.5 cm round. Enjoy prolific yields all season long! Rich, juicy cherry tomatoes with wonderfully complex, sweet flavour and firm texture. The little fruits of this variety look exotic and taste irresistibly delicious. A great snacking tomato, excellent in bruschetta.

Plants typically grow at least 150 cm and require caging or staking for support. For best results, allow these cherry tomatoes to ripen on the vine, and harvest regularly. Fruits are ripe when they turn dark red/brown in colour and they pop readily off the stem with a roll of the fingers.

Indeterminate (vine)

65 Days.

Approx: 25 Seeds.

How To Grow, Timing:  Start indoors in early spring over bottom heat. When seedlings germinate, remove from the heat and grow under bright lights. Grow seedlings on for 6-8 weeks at around 10°C. Early season tomatoes can be planted out once night time temperatures are reliably above 7°C – or later. Other types should be transplanted out when night time lows are 10°C or warmer – or later. Optimal soil temperature for germination: 25-35°C. With bottom heat seeds should germinate in 7-14 days.

How To Grow, Starting:  Sow seeds 5mm-1cm deep. Keep seedlings under very bright light to prevent legginess. You may have to pot on seedlings more than once before they go out to allow for root growth. Space bush (determinate) transplants 45-60cm apart and vine (indeterminate) types 50-75cm apart in rows 1m apart.

How to Grow, Growing:  Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. Tomatoes like fertile, well drained soil that is rich in organic matter. Dig in finished compost and manure, and add 1 cup balanced organic fertilizer beneath each transplant. The nutrition from heavy clay soils is excellent for tomatoes, but they are slow to warm, so transplanting should be done later. By the same token, lighter soils warm more quickly, so transplants can go out sooner. Adding glacial rock dust will supply all the calcium they will need. Regular watering is vital, but don’t let the plants sit in water. Tomatoes are tropical plants so they require full sun and lots of heat. Vine varieties will require some kind of support such as a wire to grow up, or a trellis to be tied to as the plant grows. Bush types benefit from the support of a tomato cage in order to prevent sprawling. At the time of final transplant, plants can be buried up to their first pair of true leaves. This will encourage greater root growth, helping with both nutrient uptake and the plants’ ability to stand up to dry conditions.
Stop watering around the end of July to encourage the fruit to ripen. If tomato plants are grown under cover, you can encourage pollination and fruit set by tapping the stem from time to time. Tomatoes do not rely on insects for pollination. Vibrating the plant shakes pollen loose within the flowers, which then self-pollinate.

Indeterminate tomatoes continue to grow and produce fruit until they are killed by frost. Remove any suckers (stems growing from the crotch of leaves) to keep the foliage under control, and they will set a later crop of larger fruit. Determinate varieties normally set fruit in a concentrated time period. Their suckers are not normally removed, though some trimming helps with ventilation.

How to Grow, Harvest:  Harvest when the fruit is the desired colour. Green tomatoes can be ripened indoors at a cool temperature when they are blemish free. Very dark green tomatoes are unlikely to ripen fully.

How To Grow, Disease & Pests:  Blossom End Rot is an environmental disorder caused by a calcium deficiency. As the name of the disorder indicates it occurs at the blossom end of the fruit. It appears as a brownish dry and firm sunken area. Sometimes a secondary infection can occur at the damaged area, which turns it mushy and wet. Internal blackening can occur without the characteristic end rot. Calcium deficiency can happen when there is uneven watering. When the plants are too dry for a period followed by over watering, this encourages fast growth. The tomato plant can’t take up enough calcium resulting in an unbalanced potassium-to-calcium ratio. Early fruit show the affects sooner than later fruit. Digging in bonemeal, dolomite lime and a balanced organic fertilizer such as Gaia All Purpose Blend 4-4-4 will help prevent this disease as will an even and regular watering schedule.

An airborne fungal disease causes Late Blight. It begins as leaf spots before spreading to stems and fruit. Water soaked areas appear on the leaves. These are greenish black and irregular in shape. Brown cankers develop on the stems and fruit. Blight infected tomatoes can have a fishy smell. Often the fruit manages to almost reach maturity before the cankers take over. Sometimes a bluish grey mould grows on the underside of infected leaves and on the fruit cankers.

Prevention is key as there is no cure for the disease. Keep moisture off the plants. Use drip tape for watering and avoid splashing the leaves. Our cloche system is excellent for keeping rain and moisture off the plants. In a greenhouse or under a cloche, humidity can build up so high that the fungus will destroy plants in 24 hours. You must ventilate well.

Bordo Copper Spray applied regularly in late summer prevents the fungus that causes Late Blight to germinate. If applied with the OMRI listed Superflow Natural Surfactant the copper spray will stay on longer and there will be less need to apply other than after each rainfall or heavy dew.

Phytopthera infestans is the fungus that infects tomatoes and potatoes, and is dreadful on the Coast. Greyish black areas appear first on stems and leaves, moving rapidly to kill the plant. The critical factor is moisture. Blight infects tomato plants with leaves and stems that are moist for over 48 hours. Moisture can be from rain, heavy dew, high humidity in a greenhouse or cover, condensation, or irrigation water. Once you know this, you can plan a shelter under an overhanging eve, on a porch or under a structure that you create. The protection must have excellent ventilation and must give you access to pick and prune your tomatoes. Consider growing your tomatoes in containers that can be moved to sheltered spots out of the rain.

Late blight overwinters in tomato and potato debris. Do not plant in a bed used to grow tomatoes or potatoes last year, and dispose of diseased plants in the garbage not the compost. Copper spray can prevent the fungus from infecting the plant. Plants must be sprayed every 7-10 days before any symptoms appear. Blight strikes in the rains of late summer, so choose at least one variety that will ripen before the deluge. The best advice we can offer to avoid blight is to grow early ripening bush varieties and to protect your vines carefully.

Flea Beetles make many tiny holes in the tomato leaves. They can cause problems for small tender transplants but a healthy plant can usually outgrow the damage. Use our Floating Row Cover for early season protection from Flea Beetles when transplanting your tomatoes.

How to Grow, Companion Planting:  Another sensitive plant when it comes to companions, tomatoes benefit from asparagus, basil, beans, borage, carrots, celery, chives, collards, cucumber, garlic, lettuce, marigold, mint, nasturtium, onion, parsley, and peppers. Avoid planting alongside Brassicas and dill. Corn will attract tomato pests, and kohlrabi will stunt tomatoes’ growth. Potatoes may spread blight to tomatoes, so keep them apart. Do no plant tomatoes near walnut trees.

Straight yellow beans hang in clusters on bush plants. Gold Rush is easy to pick with a flavour and texture that hold well for extended harvests. Tender, stringless, 10-15cm pods. Yellow colour develops at maturity. Glorious flavour and crisp texture make Gold Rush bush bean seeds a great choice for pickling and freezing. The medium sized bush plants have great disease resistance.

How To Grow, Timing:  Direct sow mid-to late spring. Try to plant during a warm, dry spell. Soil must be warm—if it is not warm enough, seeds may rot, especially since our seeds are not treated with fungicide. Sow drying beans as early as possible, so they can mature before rainy/cold weather sets in. Optimal soil temperature: 21-2°C. Seeds will sprout in 8-16 days, depending on conditions.

How To Grow, Starting:  Sow bush bean seeds 2-5cm deep, 5-8cm apart, in rows 45-60cmapart. Thin to at least 15cm apart in each row. If the weather is too wet, beans can also be started in pots indoors and set out carefully a few weeks later. For a longer harvest, plant at 3 week intervals.

How To Grow, Growing:  Ideal pH: 6.0-6.5   Well drained, warm soil in full sun is best. Use 1 cup of complete organic fertilizer for every 3m of row. Raised beds help with both drainage and warmth. Too much nitrogen fertilizer is often the cause of poor pod set and delayed maturity. If the plants flower but do not set pods, the cause may be zinc deficiency. Try spraying the plants with kelp-based fertilizer.

How To Grow, Harvest:  Pick beans regularly to keep the plant producing (if pods get fat with seed, the plant will stop flowering). The smaller the bean, the more tender they are.

58 Days.

Approx: 75 Seeds.

Parsley Pea seeds produce tendrils that are unique and delicious. Technically a snap pea, this curious pea is more often grown for its edible tendrils, leaflets, and flowers. Harvest whole plants when they are 15-20cm tall or cut above the first node and get a second flush of growth. Plants will produce snap peas at about 60 days on 1m tall vines if not harvested for greens. Try growing Parsley Peas in a 5-gallon patio container or in flower boxes, and harvest the fresh tendrils as needed. They make a fresh and crunchy addition to salads and sandwiches.

How To Grow, Timing:  Peas prefer cool weather. Plant as early in spring as the soil can be worked. If planting on the west coast after April 1, sow varieties that are listed as being enation resistant if you live in an area where aphids carry the enation virus. Sow again through the summer for a fall crop. The success of a fall crop will depend on the weather. Optimal soil temperature: 10-20°C. Seeds should sprout in 7-14 days.

How To Grow, Starting:  Soaking seeds is not advised for damp soils. Sow seed 2cm deep. After April 15th, sow seed 5cm deep. Space seeds 2-7cm apart in the row. Do not thin. If the seeds fail to sprout, try to dig some up and check for rot or insect damage. The challenge with untreated pea seeds is to give them an early start but to avoid rot.

How To Grow, Growing:  Use well-drained soil amended with finished compost. Add 2 cups of rock phosphate or bonemeal for 3m of row. Plant most varieties along a trellis or fence for support as they climb. Dwarf varieties do not need a trellis, but may benefit from the support of some twigs poked into the soil in the row.

How To Grow, Harvest:  Pick when pods at the desired stage. In theory, all peas can be harvested before the seeds mature, as snow peas, and then as tender snap peas, and finally as shelling peas. Most varieties have an intended maturity for picking. Make multiple sowings or grow several varieties to extend the harvest season.

How To Blanch Peas:  Peas of all kinds freeze particularly well for use in the fall and winter. Prior to freezing, it’s important to briefly submerge peas in boiling water — this kills the natural enzymes that exist in peas that would otherwise reduce the nutrients and cause the peas to break down over time. We recommend using a large pot of water at a rolling boil, and a colander or sieve for dipping. Timing is everything. For snap and snow peas, dip the whole pods into boiling water for exactly two minutes, and then transfer the pods to a bowl of ice water. For shelled peas, ninety seconds is perfect. Use a timer. After ninety seconds, transfer the peas to a bowl of ice water. All peas (and pods) should then be dried thoroughly on kitchen towels before being stored in zip-top or vacuum bags, with as little air as possible in each bag.

Hakurei turnip seeds produce gourmet turnips that are smooth and pretty, and with tidy tops too! Roots and smooth, dark green leaves are best used in salads. Japanese breeding produces uniform, globe-shaped roots with snow-white skin and a crisp texture. Plant short rows frequently so the fresh roots and tops are available to you from spring to fall, and so your whole turnip crop doesn’t come at once. Hakurei turnips can be harvested straight from the ground quite late into the fall. If frost is in the forecast, cover the turnips with heavyweight row cover or burlap. Or harvest the remaining roots and store them indoors in a cool, dry place. Root cellars are ideal.

How To Grow, Timing:  Direct sow short rows starting just after the last frost date, through summer, and into the fall. Where winters are mild they can be started right into October. Optimal soil temperature for germination: 18-21°C. Seeds should sprout in 7-14 days.

How To Grow, Starting:  Sow 5mm-1cm deep in rows spaced 60cm apart, and thin to 15-20cm apart in the row.

How To Grow, Growing:  Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8.  Humus-rich, deeply cultivated soil is key. Add plenty of well rotted compost or manure to the beds and cultivate to a depth of 20cm. Dig in 1 cup of complete organic fertilizer for every 3m of row. The real secret to success with turnips is speed. Sow short rows every 2-3 weeks, thin them quickly, keep them watered, harvest, and then sow some more.

How To Grow, Harvest:  Gather greens and roots throughout summer as needed. Their immature seed pods are also tasty.

40 Days.

Approx: 350 Seeds.

 

Strong early vigour makes Temptress Quad Sweet a fantastic variety to start the season. Superb flavour, performance, and broad disease resistance rounds out the package for this synergistic (sy) hybrid.

The 20cm ears are filled to the tip with 16 rows of tender bicolour kernels. Isolate from yellow varieties for best colour. Best eaten within 2 days of harvesting.

How To Grow, Timing:  Direct sow in late spring. If the soil is not warm enough, seeds often rot before sprouting – especially when not treated with fungicide. Untreated corn seeds should be planted only when the soil has warmed up above 18°C – warmer for super-sweet (sh2) types, and even warmer for a good stand. Use a soil thermometer. If spring weather is cold, consider planting in flats or individual pots, indoors with bottom heat, for transplanting. Seeds should germinate in 7-10 days. If it rains after planting and corn does not emerge, just re-plant the area.
How To Grow, Starting:

Do not soak corn seeds prior to planting. Plant 2-5cm deep (shallower for sh2 seed or in cool soil). Sow seeds around 7.5cm apart, in rows 60-90cm apart.

Because corn is wind pollinated, plant in a dense block of at least 4 rows, rather than in single rows. This increases the chance of corn pollen, which emerges from male flowers at the growing tip, to fall down onto the receptive female silks that extend from each corn cob.

How To Grow, Growing:  Ideal pH: 5.8-6.8.  Corn is a heavy feeder, so add manure or compost, and use 500g of complete organic fertilizer per 6m of row, mixing it thoroughly into the soil beneath each seed furrow. Thin to at least 20-25cm apart in the row. Large eared and double-eared varieties need to be 30cm apart. Keep free of weeds until knee-high, and then leave it alone.

How To Grow, Harvest:  When the silks at the end of an ear are a dry brown, the cob seems to start to droop, and the kernels release milky juice when cut.

How To Grow, Harvesting Popcorn:  Leave the ears of popcorn varieties on the plants to dry as long as possible into late summer and early fall. The husks should turn yellow/brown as they dry and the kernels should harden. Once the plants appear to be completely dry, or if wet weather is in the forecast, harvest the ears and bring them indoors. Remove the husks. Store the ears in mesh bags in a warm, dry, airy location. The ideal humidity level for curing popcorn is 13 to 14%. Curing is the process after drying that allows for long term storage of popcorn kernels. Once a week, remove a few kernels and try popping them. Popcorn that is chewy or kernels that have jagged edges after popping both mean that the kernels are not dry enough. Continue curing and test-popping until the desired texture is reached. Then remove the kernels and store them in an air-tight container.

 

70 days

Approx 50 seeds

 

Red Robin tomato seeds produce hardy, compact dwarf plants that deliver high yields of delicious cherry tomatoes. Plants are easy to grow, and best suited for containers whether located indoors or outdoors. While Red Robin tomato plants will deliver the highest yields in outside containers, plants will set fruit in lower light indoor conditions and still deliver moderate yields of sweet cherry tomatoes.

Typically 20-30 cm (8-12″) tall, Red Robin tomato plants make an attractive, ornamental addition to any garden patio, window or balcony. Round scarlet cherry tomatoes 2.5 -4 cm (1-1 1/2″) in diameter set in tight clusters create a striking contrast with dark green potato leaves. Compact determinate (bush). Matures in 55 days.

Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. Tomatoes like fertile, well drained soil that is rich in organic matter. Dig in finished compost and manure, and add 1 cup balanced organic fertilizer beneath each transplant. The nutrition from heavy clay soils is excellent for tomatoes, but they are slow to warm, so transplanting should be done later. By the same token, lighter soils warm more quickly, so transplants can go out sooner. Adding glacial rock dust will supply all the calcium they will need. Regular watering is vital, but don’t let the plants sit in water. Tomatoes are tropical plants so they require full sun and lots of heat. Vine varieties will require some kind of support such as a wire to grow up, or a trellis to be tied to as the plant grows. Bush types benefit from the support of a tomato cage in order to prevent sprawling. At the time of final transplant, plants can be buried up to their first pair of true leaves. This will encourage greater root growth, helping with both nutrient uptake and the plants’ ability to stand up to dry conditions. Stop watering around the end of July to encourage the fruit to ripen. If tomato plants are grown under cover, you can encourage pollination and fruit set by tapping the stem from time to time. Tomatoes do not rely on insects for pollination. Vibrating the plant shakes pollen loose within the flowers, which then self-pollinate.

Indeterminate tomatoes continue to grow and produce fruit until they are killed by frost. Remove any suckers (stems growing from the crotch of leaves) to keep the foliage under control, and they will set a later crop of larger fruit. Determinate varieties normally set fruit in a concentrated time period. Their suckers are not normally removed, though some trimming helps with ventilation.

Harvest: Harvest when the fruit is the desired colour. Green tomatoes can be ripened indoors at a cool temperature when they are blemish free. Very dark green tomatoes are unlikely to ripen fully.

Diseases & Pests: Blossom End Rot is an environmental disorder caused by a calcium deficiency. As the name of the disorder indicates it occurs at the blossom end of the fruit. It appears as a brownish dry and firm sunken area. Sometimes a secondary infection can occur at the damaged area, which turns it mushy and wet. Internal blackening can occur without the characteristic end rot. Calcium deficiency can happen when there is uneven watering. When the plants are too dry for a period followed by over watering, this encourages fast growth. The tomato plant can’t take up enough calcium resulting in an unbalanced potassium-to-calcium ratio. Early fruit show the affects sooner than later fruit. Digging in bonemeal, dolomite lime and a balanced organic fertilizer such as Gaia All Purpose Blend 4-4-4 will help prevent this disease as will an even and regular watering schedule.

An airborne fungal disease causes Late Blight. It begins as leaf spots before spreading to stems and fruit. Water soaked areas appear on the leaves. These are greenish black and irregular in shape. Brown cankers develop on the stems and fruit. Blight infected tomatoes can have a fishy smell. Often the fruit manages to almost reach maturity before the cankers take over. Sometimes a bluish grey mould grows on the underside of infected leaves and on the fruit cankers.

Prevention is key as there is no cure for the disease. Keep moisture off the plants. Use drip tape for watering and avoid splashing the leaves. Our cloche system is excellent for keeping rain and moisture off the plants. In a greenhouse or under a cloche, humidity can build up so high that the fungus will destroy plants in 24 hours. You must ventilate well.

Bordo Copper Spray applied regularly in late summer prevents the fungus that causes Late Blight to germinate. If applied with the OMRI listed Superflow Natural Surfactant the copper spray will stay on longer and there will be less need to apply other than after each rainfall or heavy dew.

Companion Planting: Another sensitive plant when it comes to companions, tomatoes benefit from asparagus, basil, beans, borage, carrots, celery, chives, collards, cucumber, garlic, lettuce, marigold, mint, nasturtium, onion, parsley, and peppers. Avoid planting alongside Brassicas and dill. Corn will attract tomato pests, and kohlrabi will stunt tomatoes’ growth. Potatoes may spread blight to tomatoes, so keep them apart. Do no plant tomatoes near walnut trees.

Approx. 15 seeds

C. pepo. Sow Vegetable Spaghetti squash seeds for fruits that actually appear to be stuffed with cooked spaghetti. The pale yellow, oval fruits grow to 25cm (10″) on long, productive vines. Spaghetti squash seeds keep well for meals right through winter. Boil or bake the whole fruits, and then cut lengthwise down the middle. It’s then easy to fork out the fibrous interior that looks just like pasta. Enjoy it simply seasoned as is, or topped with your favourite pasta sauce. The yellow rind of this squash is smooth and very hard. After the fruits have ripened on the vines, give them a quick wipe down with a highly diluted bleach solution. If the skin is not nicked, the fruits will last for months. Matures in 100 days.

Widely adapted vibrant purple radish for growing spring through fall. Purpura adds a pop of exciting colour and zesty flavour to salads and vegetable platters. High-quality roots have good tolerance to cracking. Strong tops make harvesting easy and are attractive for bunching. These looking fantastic bunched on a market table on their own or make rainbow bunches with Pearl white radish and and of our red varieties.

Timing: Radishes can be grown all season but they’re easiest when sown just after the last frost date and again at the end of summer and into the fall. Optimal soil temperature: 18-24°C (65-75°F). Seeds should sprout in 5-7 days.

Starting: Sow seeds 5mm (¼”) deep, 25 seeds per 30cm (12″) in rows spaced 30-45cm (12-18″) apart, and thin to 6-12 plants per 30cm (12″).

Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. Radishes are moderate to heavy feeders. Best in rich, loamy soil amended with composted manure. Add 1 cup of complete organic fertilizer for every 3m (10′) of row for background fertility. Lime beds the previous fall. The real secret to growing this little vegetable is speed. Sow a short row frequently, thin them quickly, keep them watered, eat them quickly, and sow some more.

Harvest: Harvest promptly when radishes are the size of large marbles. The leaves and developing seedpods are also tasty.

Diseases & Pests: Root maggots and flea beetles can be a problem. Expect to lose 20-30% of your crop to maggots if you don’t use a floating row cover.

Companion Planting: Plant radishes near beans, beets, celeriac, chervil, cucumber, lettuce, mint, parsnip, peas, spinach, squash, and tomatoes. Avoid planting near Agastache or potatoes. It is said that planting 3 or 4 icicle radishes around the mound where you plant squash, and allowing them to grow and bloom, will prevent most pests of squash and cucumber.

Early maturing, extra-large jalapeno with wide adaptability. Spicy Slice’s 10cm (4”) fruit grow on vigorous, productive plants that offer good cover. Medium-dark green peppers have a good flavour with medium pungency, good for both fresh and processing. Uniform, green peppers will eventually mature to a sweeter red colour, but at the green stage they are pungent and hot at 2,500-4000 SHUs. Matures in 60 days.

This improved version of Sugar Snap produces the sweetest dark green snap peas with an excellent crunch. Super Sugar Snap’s 10cm (4″) long, plump pods grow in pairs on 1.5-2m (5-6′) tall vines. The most renown snap pea for its incomparable flavour and high yields. The vigorous climbing vines must be trellised. Although Super Sugar Snap is not resistant to the enation virus, it is typically trouble free, providing easy-to-harvest peas in June and July.

Matures in 68 days.

Amaranthus tricolor. Callaloo Amaranth seeds are grown all over the Caribbean to cultivate baby leaves for the dish known as Callaloo. There are many regional variations to this dish of cooked greens, some with spicy peppers added, some with meat or fish. Callaloo Amaranth makes excellent micro-greens, but we grow them to the immature size of about 30cm (12″) tall, while the leaves are still tender. Left to grow to full maturity, the plants will develop elegant, dangling flower clusters just like our Green Tails. The flowers and seeds are also edible, but may end up in a vase instead. Matures in 40-60 days.

Timing: Direct sow in late spring, once night time temperatures are steadily above 10°C (50°F). Optimal soil temperature for germination: 18-24°C (65-75°F).

Starting: Sow seeds 5mm (¼”) deep in well drained soil in full sun. Seeds should germinate in 4 to 10 days. Thin seedlings to 25-35cm (10-14″) apart in rows 50cm (20″) apart.

Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-7.5. Keep moist until germinated, and then simply keep the area weeded.

Harvest: Pick baby or mature greens as needed. Simply cut them with scissors as one would with mescluns. The leaves have an appealing, nutty flavour. If growing for seed, choose A. hypochondriacus and provide ample spacing. Seed will ripen in late summer or early fall. Watch for birds visiting the plants. Rub the flower heads between your hands over a bucket or tray. Doing this into paper yard waste bags works well. If the seeds do not fall easily, leave the plants for one more week and try again.

Approx. 380 seeds

We love the flavour and delicate texture of the leaves for lettuce wraps! Buttercrunch butterhead lettuce seeds are a Bibb type lettuce that forms a tight little rosette of soft, dark-green, upward-facing leaves surrounding a tender, pale centre. The small hearts don’t become bitter in hot weather. Later plantings stand well into fall and make good growth in spring cold frames. Buttercrunch lettuce is a good candidate for growing all winter if you can provide cloche or greenhouse protection, or even a simple cold frame. Sow some extra early indoors in February for transplanting to the cold frame in March.

How To Grow, Timing:  Lettuce grows best in cool weather in the spring and fall, but it can be grown in the summer, and all winter long in milder regions. Sow short rows every 2-3 weeks following the last average frost date for a continual harvest. Using a cloche, cold frame, or greenhouse over mid-late summer plantings can extend the harvest period right into winter. Optimal soil temperature for germination: 10-22°C. Seeds should sprout in 7-15 days, depending on conditions. Lettuce seeds don’t sprout easily when the soil temperature is over 22°C in summer. Get around this by sprouting them indoors in a cool area, or pre-sprout by sprinkling seeds on a damp paper towel and placing it in a plastic bag in the fridge for a few days. In hot weather most lettuce goes to seed rapidly, so have new plantings ready to go, and watch for “good resistance to bolting” in the product description.

How To Grow, Starting:  Direct sow or start indoors and transplant. Sow seeds 5mm deep, or on the surface of the soil where the soil can be kept evenly moist. Space or thin heading lettuce to 30cm apart. Space or thin looseleaf varieties to 20-25cm apart. Space rows for all types 45-90cm apart. Babyleaf lettuce can be planted quite densely, as it is harvested at an immature size. Sowing babyleaf lettuce seeds closely together in narrow rows makes harvesting simpler.

Note on Pelleted Seeds: A number of our lettuce seeds are pelleted for machine planting. The white clay ball that covers each seed makes them easier to handle and easier to see when planted. While most lettuce seeds need to be barely covered (or sown on the surface of the soil), pelleted seeds need to be buried by about 1cm. Please keep your newly sown pelleted seeds evenly moist – use more water than with conventional seeds. If the soil is allowed to dry out, the clay pelleting material can wick water away from the seed, causing uneven or lower germination.

How To Grow, Growing:  Ideal pH: 6.0-6.5.  Aim for a soil with ample drainage and lots of organic matter. Add compost and lime at least 3 weeks prior to planting. One cup of balanced organic fertilizer per 3m of row will give adequate nutrition. Seedlings should be hardened off by reducing water and putting the plants outdoors 2 or 3 days before transplanting. This will help to prevent transplant shock and premature bolting. Regular watering is essential to prevent leaves from developing a bitter taste.

How To Grow, Harvest:  Pick individual leaves or wait and harvest full heads. Mature summer lettuce stays in prime eating condition only a short time, so harvest promptly and keep planting. In fall and winter the plants stay in good harvest condition longer.

Matures in 67 days.

Approx: 980 Seeds.