Vegetable Seeds
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Gourds – Autumn Wings Blend – West Coast Seeds
$4.49Add to cartAutumn Wings is an assortment of small, winged gourds of bright yellow, orange, green, and cream, the colors of fall. These unique gourds grow on semi-vining plants. Shaped like a swan, the base is 6-7.5cm (2.5-3″) across with a neck 10-12.5cm (4-5″) long. Autumn Wings is fantastic for decorating the house or farm stand. Wait to harvest until fully mature to avoid damaging the wings.
Timing: Direct sow or transplant in late spring once the soil is warm. For transplants, start seeds indoors during the first two weeks of May. Optimal soil temperature: 25-35°C (77-95°F). Seeds should germinate in 7-14 days.
Starting: Sow seeds 2cm (1″) deep. Sow 3 seeds in each spot where you want a plant to grow, and thin to the strongest plant. Space summer squash 45-60cm (18-24″) apart in rows 90-120cm (36-48″) apart. Give winter squash and pumpkins even more room with a minimum of 90-120cm (36-48″) apart in rows 120-180cm (48-72″) apart.
Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. These big plants need lots of food. Use 1 cup of complete organic fertilizer worked into the soil beneath each plant. All squash grow male flowers first, at later female flowers. The female flowers have tiny fruits at the base of their petals and require pollination by bees mostly. Incomplete pollination often happens at the beginning of the season, and results in misshapen fruits that are withered at the blossom end. Just discard these damaged fruits before they begin to rot. Encourage bees to visit the garden by growing Phacelia, sunflowers, or buckwheat for improved pollination.
Storage: Field-cure for 10 days in the sun, or cure indoors in a warm room for 4 or 5 days. To prevent mould sponge the skins with a solution of 10 parts water to 1 part chlorine bleach. Store at 10-15ºC (50-60ºF) with low humidity with good air circulation. Try on a shelf in the garage.
Diseases & Pests: Bacterial wilt (Erwinia tracheiphila) – Remove and destroy infested plants. If striped or spotted cucumber beetles appear, control as early as possible. Powdery mildew – avoid wetting foliage if possible. Water early in the day so that above ground parts of the plants dry as quickly as possible. Avoid crowding plants and eliminate weeds around plants and garden area to improve air circulation. Viral disease – remove and destroy entire infested plant along with immediately surrounding soil and soil clinging to roots.
Approx. 10 seeds
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Gourds – Galaxy of Stars – West Coast Seeds
$6.49Add to cartA colourful hybrid mix of 5-pointed star shaped gourds, Galaxy of Stars’ small size is perfect for fall decorations indoors and out. Expect a variety of 0.5-1kg (1-2lb) warted and smooth, solid and striped gourds in cream, yellows, oranges, and greens. Looks great displayed on its own or paired with other gourds and mini pumpkins.
Timing: Direct sow or transplant in late spring once the soil is warm. For transplants, start seeds indoors during the first two weeks of May. Optimal soil temperature: 25-35°C (77-95°F). Seeds should germinate in 7-14 days.
Starting: Sow seeds 2cm (1″) deep. Sow 3 seeds in each spot where you want a plant to grow, and thin to the strongest plant. Space summer squash 45-60cm (18-24″) apart in rows 90-120cm (36-48″) apart. Give winter squash and pumpkins even more room with a minimum of 90-120cm (36-48″) apart in rows 120-180cm (48-72″) apart.
Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. These big plants need lots of food. Use 1 cup of complete organic fertilizer worked into the soil beneath each plant. All squash grow male flowers first, at later female flowers. The female flowers have tiny fruits at the base of their petals and require pollination by bees mostly. Incomplete pollination often happens at the beginning of the season, and results in misshapen fruits that are withered at the blossom end. Just discard these damaged fruits before they begin to rot. Encourage bees to visit the garden by growing Phacelia, sunflowers, or buckwheat for improved pollination.
Storage: Field-cure for 10 days in the sun, or cure indoors in a warm room for 4 or 5 days. To prevent mould sponge the skins with a solution of 10 parts water to 1 part chlorine bleach. Store at 10-15ºC (50-60ºF) with low humidity with good air circulation. Try on a shelf in the garage.
Diseases & Pests: Bacterial wilt (Erwinia tracheiphila) – Remove and destroy infested plants. If striped or spotted cucumber beetles appear, control as early as possible. Powdery mildew – avoid wetting foliage if possible. Water early in the day so that above ground parts of the plants dry as quickly as possible. Avoid crowding plants and eliminate weeds around plants and garden area to improve air circulation. Viral disease – remove and destroy entire infested plant along with immediately surrounding soil and soil clinging to roots.
Approx. 10 seeds
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Kale – KX-1 – West Coast Seeds
$3.99Add to cartA dark purple kale grown primarily for babyleaf harvest, holding its small size for an extended period. KX-1 is purple from emergence, unlike other varieties that develop colour later in the season. Perfect for microgreens, salads, and braising mixes.
Timing: Direct sow in early spring to mid-summer for summer to winter harvests. Or start indoors 4-6 weeks before the last frost, and transplant out as soon as the soil warms up. Optimal soil temperature: 10-30°C (50-85°F). Seeds should germinate in 7-10 days.
Starting: Sow 3-4 seeds 5mm (¼”) deep in each spot you where a plant is to grow. Thin to the strongest plant. Space 45-60cm (18-24″) apart in rows 75-90cm (30-36″) apart.
Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. Add lime to the bed 3 weeks prior to sowing. Kale likes well-drained, fertile soil high in organic matter. This plant prefers plentiful, consistent moisture. Drought is tolerable, but quality and flavor of leaves can suffer. Mix ¼ cup of complete organic fertilizer into the soil beneath each transplant, or use 1 cup beneath every 3m (10′) of seed furrow.
Harvest: Kale and collards can both be grown as a cut and come again crop for salad mixes by direct-seeding and cutting baby leaves. They will re-grow if you pick leaves from the bottom up, as you need them. Continue harvesting lower leaves as they mature—plants will keep producing all season. Kale can overwinter in many areas. In fact, the leaves get sweeter after frost, though growth will slow. In spring, the surviving plants start to flower, so eat the delicious flowering steps and buds.
Diseases & Pests: Protect from cabbage moths and other insect pests with floating row cover. Prevent disease with a strict 4-year crop rotation, avoiding planting Brassicas in the same spot more than once every four years.
Approx. 250 seeds
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Kale – Vates Blue Scots Curled – West Coast Seeds
$3.29Add to cartSow slow-bolting Vates Blue Curled Scotch kale seeds in early spring for summer harvests, or July for fall and winter harvests. Vates is a low-growing dwarf type with finely curled blue-green leaves. It’s suitable for large containers (minimum five gallons) for patio growing. It grows to only 30-40cm (12-16″) tall, and about 60cm (24″) in diameter. Like most kale varieties, it’s especially tender and sweet after a light frost.
Timing: Direct sow in early spring to mid-summer for summer to winter harvests. Or start indoors 4-6 weeks before the last frost, and transplant out as soon as the soil warms up. Optimal soil temperature: 10-30°C (50-85°F). Seeds should germinate in 7-10 days.
Starting: Sow 3-4 seeds 5mm (¼”) deep in each spot you where a plant is to grow. Thin to the strongest plant. Space 45-60cm (18-24″) apart in rows 75-90cm (30-36″) apart.
Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. Add lime to the bed 3 weeks prior to sowing. Kale likes well-drained, fertile soil high in organic matter. This plant prefers plentiful, consistent moisture. Drought is tolerable, but quality and flavor of leaves can suffer. Mix ¼ cup of complete organic fertilizer into the soil beneath each transplant, or use 1 cup beneath every 3m (10′) of seed furrow.
Harvest: Kale and collards can both be grown as a cut and come again crop for salad mixes by direct-seeding and cutting baby leaves. They will re-grow if you pick leaves from the bottom up, as you need them. Continue harvesting lower leaves as they mature—plants will keep producing all season. Kale can overwinter in many areas. In fact, the leaves get sweeter after frost, though growth will slow. In spring, the surviving plants start to flower, so eat the delicious flowering steps and buds.
Diseases & Pests: Protect from cabbage moths and other insect pests with floating row cover. Prevent disease with a strict 4-year crop rotation, avoiding planting Brassicas in the same spot more than once every four years.
Approx. 260 seeds
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Kale – Redbor – West Coast Seeds
$8.49Add to cartRedbor kale seeds produce tall plants with the darkest red colour of all kales. After frost the leaves turn even darker and sweeter at the same time. Hybrid vigour means fast, uniform growth and consistent results every time. The splendid red leaves make excellent garnishes – they even look good in flower arrangements. Add finely chopped kale leaves to salads, or use the whole leaves cooked or in smoothies for a delicious blast of nutrients. A single serving of red kale contains 150mg of calcium, and that’s 15% of the recommended daily dosage. Winner of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. Matures in 50 days. (Hybrid seeds)
Timing: Direct sow in early spring to mid-summer for summer to winter harvests. Or start indoors 4-6 weeks before the last frost, and transplant out as soon as the soil warms up. Optimal soil temperature: 10-30°C (50-85°F). Seeds should germinate in 7-10 days.
Starting: Sow 3-4 seeds 5mm (¼”) deep in each spot you where a plant is to grow. Thin to the strongest plant. Space 45-60cm (18-24″) apart in rows 75-90cm (30-36″) apart.
Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. Add lime to the bed 3 weeks prior to sowing. Kale likes well-drained, fertile soil high in organic matter. This plant prefers plentiful, consistent moisture. Drought is tolerable, but quality and flavor of leaves can suffer. Mix ¼ cup of complete organic fertilizer into the soil beneath each transplant, or use 1 cup beneath every 3m (10′) of seed furrow.
Harvest: Kale and collards can both be grown as a cut and come again crop for salad mixes by direct-seeding and cutting baby leaves. They will re-grow if you pick leaves from the bottom up, as you need them. Continue harvesting lower leaves as they mature—plants will keep producing all season. Kale can overwinter in many areas. In fact, the leaves get sweeter after frost, though growth will slow. In spring, the surviving plants start to flower, so eat the delicious flowering steps and buds.
Diseases & Pests: Protect from cabbage moths and other insect pests with floating row cover. Prevent disease with a strict 4-year crop rotation, avoiding planting Brassicas in the same spot more than once every four years
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Mustard – Ruby Mizuna – West Coast Seeds
$4.69Add to cartNicely lobed purple/bronze leaves have serrated edges that add interest to fresh salad and braising mixes. The underside of the leaves and stems are green for an attractive colour contrast. Best grown to baby leaf size, Ruby mizuna performs exceptionally well in cool weather and is fast to germinate, even in cool soil. It is a good choice for container growing, for winter harvests, and for microgreens. Sow repeated short rows at three-week intervals and you can have a continuous harvest of mild, nutritious greens.
Timing: Mustards are cool season plants that grow quickly and then bolt. Direct sow with frost protection as early as late winter or without protection from early to late spring. Sowing short rows every 3 weeks allows for a continuous harvest of both baby leaves and full sized plants. Sow again in late summer for late fall and winter harvests. Optimal soil temperature: 21°C (70°F). Seeds should sprout in 5-10 days.
Starting: If growing to full size, sow 3-4 seeds in each spot you want a plant to grow. Sow 5mm-1cm (¼-½”) deep and thin to the strongest plant, spaced 10-15cm (4-6″) in the row. All mustards can be grown in containers for baby salad greens. Sow these as you would mesclun mixes, with seeds spaced as near as possible to 1cm (½”) apart.
Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.5. One cup of complete organic fertilizer will provide nutrition for 3m (10′) of row. Water regularly. Expect mustards to bolt in hot weather. Provide protection in winter by using a cloche or heavy row cover. At all other times, plan on growing fast and harvesting fast, like spinach. Planting short rows every two weeks works best for the home garden for a constant harvest.
Harvest: Cut individual leaves, or the whole plant at whatever stage of maturity you desire. Young leaves tend to be more tender and less powerfully flavoured as mature leaves. Some varieties will develop a slight bitterness in fully mature leaves. The leaves can be blanched (or run through a food processor) and then frozen, or even dried and flaked for soup mixes. But the plants are so cold hardy, fresh leaves should be available to the determined gardener 12 months of the year. Whole plants can also be pickled for long term storage.
Approx. 740 seeds
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Peas – Alaska – West Coast Seeds
$3.49Add to cartThis heirloom shelling pea dates back to 1880. Our earliest maturing variety, Alaska is a versatile, reliable pea that grows well in cool soil, so it is great for northern regions. The short vines grow to 90cm (36″) and can benefit from some support. Expect heavy yields of round, straight, pale green pods, each containing 5-8 smooth peas. For drying as soup peas, let the plants mature to 80 days.
Timing: Peas prefer cool weather. Plant as early in spring as the soil can be worked. If planting on the west coast after April 1, sow varieties that are listed as being enation resistant if you live in an area where aphids carry the enation virus. Sow again through the summer for a fall crop. The success of a fall crop will depend on the weather. Optimal soil temperature: 10-20°C (50-70°F). Seeds should sprout in 7-14 days.
Starting: Soaking seeds is not advised for damp soils. Sow seed 2cm (1″) deep. After April 15th, sow seed 5cm (2″) deep. Space seeds 2-7cm (1-3″) apart in the row. Do not thin. If the seeds fail to sprout, try to dig some up and check for rot or insect damage. The challenge with untreated pea seeds is to give them an early start but to avoid rot.
Growing: Use well-drained soil amended with finished compost. Add 2 cups of rock phosphate or bonemeal for 3m (10′) of row. Plant most varieties along a trellis or fence for support as they climb. Dwarf varieties do not need a trellis, but may benefit from the support of some twigs poked into the soil in the row.
Harvest: Pick when pods at the desired stage. In theory, all peas can be harvested before the seeds mature, as snow peas, and then as tender snap peas, and finally as shelling peas. Most varieties have an intended maturity for picking. Make multiple sowings or grow several varieties to extend the harvest season.
How to Blanch Peas: Peas of all kinds freeze particularly well for use in the fall and winter. Prior to freezing, it’s important to briefly submerge peas in boiling water — this kills the natural enzymes that exist in peas that would otherwise reduce the nutrients and cause the peas to break down over time. We recommend using a large pot of water at a rolling boil, and a colander or sieve for dipping. Timing is everything. For snap and snow peas, dip the whole pods into boiling water for exactly two minutes, and then transfer the pods to a bowl of ice water. For shelled peas, ninety seconds is perfect. Use a timer. After ninety seconds, transfer the peas to a bowl of ice water. All peas (and pods) should then be dried thoroughly on kitchen towels before being stored in zip-top or vacuum bags, with as little air as possible in each bag.
Diseases & Pests: If plants turn yellow and wither from the ground up just after flowering, you may have pea root rot from a soil fungus. It infects the plant in early spring when the soil is very wet. Prevent it by delaying planting until the soil is drier and by using finished compost when you plant. Rotate peas into new areas each year without repeating an area for 3-4 years. Pea enation disease is a Coastal virus disease spread by the green peach aphid. It ends flowering and causes pods to become warty and misshapen.
The pea moth is a sporadic and usually inconspicuous pest. The tiny brown moth flutters around when the flowers are just opening, and lays it eggs on the immature seed pod. The damage the caterpillar does not mean you can’t eat the rest of the peas in the pod. The larva is a tiny caterpillar with a black head, which feeds inside the seedpod and overwinters in the soil. There is one generation per year across Canada. In the pea-growing areas of the lower Fraser Valley in British Columbia, releases of two parasites have provided partially effective biological control. In general, processing and fresh-market pea crops should not be grown in areas with dry (seed) pea or seed vetch crops. After harvest, all remaining pods and vines should be destroyed by ensiling, feeding, or deep cultivating.
Approx. 115 seeds
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Peppers – Flavourburst – West Coast Seeds
$5.99Add to cartEarly maturing bell that ripens from a brilliant lime green to golden yellow. Flavorburst’s plants are compact and sturdy producing an abundance of medium size slightly elongated fruit, 7.5-10cm (3-4”) long. High quality fruit has thick walls that are wonderfully sweet and juicy.
Timing: Peppers need plenty of time to mature before they will bloom and set fruit. Start indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost date, and grow under bright lights. Transplant only when weather has really warmed up. Night time low temperatures should be consistently above 12°C (55°F) before hardening off pepper plants and transplanting outdoors. Soil temperature for germination: 25-29°C (78-85°F). Seeds should sprout in 10 – 21 days.
Starting: Sow indoors 5mm-1cm (¼-½”) deep. Keep soil as warm as possible. Seedling heating mats speed germination. Try to keep seedlings at 18-24°C (64-75°F) in the day, and 16-18°C (61-64°F) at night. Before they become root-bound, transplant them into 8cm (3″) pots. For greatest possible flower set, try to keep them for 4 weeks at night, about 12°C (55°F). Then transplant them into 15cm (6″) pots, bringing them into a warm room at night, about 21°C (70°F).
Growing: Soil should have abundant phosphorus and calcium, so add lime and compost to the bed at least three weeks prior to transplanting. Mix ½ cup of balanced organic fertilizer beneath each plant. Though peppers will tolerate dry soil, they will only put on good growth if kept moist. Harden off before planting out 30-60cm (12-24″) apart. Five gallon containers also work well, but require good drainage and regular irrigation. Using plastic mulch with a cloche can increase the temperature by a few degrees. Pinch back growing tips to encourage leaf production. This helps shade the developing fruits and prevents sun-scald in hot summers.
Harvest: Fruit can be picked once it is firm and has reached desired size, however, sweetness can increase dramatically as the fruit ripens. If you pick the peppers when they are still young/green, the plant will keep producing more fruit. Fruit that sets after late August will not usually develop or ripen. Pull out the entire bush just before the first frost and hang it upside down in a warm, dry place to ripen hot peppers.
Approx. 10 seeds
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Pumpkins – Mint Prince – West Coast Seeds
$4.99Add to cartDeeply ribbed and slightly flattened fruit are made for fall stacking displays. Mint Prince’s colour is a pretty mint green that is complimented by the dark green of Jade Knight and the pale pink of Porcelain Princess, which all have a similar size and shape. Bright orange flesh looks and eats like a kabocha. 3-4.5kg (7-10lb) Full vines.
Timing: Direct sow or transplant in late spring once the soil is warm. For transplants, start seeds indoors during the first two weeks of May. Optimal soil temperature: 25-35°C (77-95°F). Seeds should germinate in 7-14 days.
Starting: Sow seeds 2cm (1″) deep. Sow 3 seeds in each spot you want a plant to grow and thin to the strongest plant. Space plants at a minimum of 90-120cm (36-48″) apart in rows 120-180cm (48-72″) apart. If starting transplants indoors, consider using the 12-cell plug inserts.
Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. These big plants need lots of food. Choose a sunny spot with fertile, well-draining soil. Dig in a generous quantity of finished compost and/or composted manure. Dig in 1 cup of complete organic fertilizer under each plant. All pumpkins grow male flowers first, then the female flowers are produced. The female flowers have tiny fruits at the base of the petals and require pollination by bees, mostly. Incomplete pollination is common at the beginning of the season, and results in small fruits that are misshapen at the flower end. Discard these damaged fruits before they rot.
For the largest pumpkins, feed weekly throughout the growing season with fish or kelp based fertilizer. Keep the huge plants well watered, particularly in hot weather. Always water the soil, and avoid any form of overhead watering other than rain. Fruit will grow larger if you keep only one fruit per vine. As the fruit develops, try to gently encourage it to grow at a 90° angle to the vine itself. The largest pumpkin varieties will grow on their sides.
Harvest: Like other winter squash, pumpkins are mature when they have coloured up well and their stems are crisp. For the best sugar content, cut the stem about 4cm (2″) or so from the body of the fruit. If the weather is dry, allow the pumpkins to cure in the field for 10 days, or in a warm room for 4-5 days. Bring pumpkins in under cover before rain.
Approx. 5 seeds
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Pumpkins – Porcelain Princess – West Coast Seeds
$6.49Add to cartDeeply ribbed, shiny pale pink pumpkins are shaped perfectly for stacking. Porcelain Princess is tasty as well, with bright orange flesh and flavour similar to a kabocha squash. 3-4.5kg (7-10lb) flattened fruit grow on long, full size vines. Create colourful displays with the dark and light green stacking pumpkins Jade Knight and Mint Prince which have a similar size and shape.
Timing: Direct sow or transplant in late spring once the soil is warm. For transplants, start seeds indoors during the first two weeks of May. Optimal soil temperature: 25-35°C (77-95°F). Seeds should germinate in 7-14 days.
Starting: Sow seeds 2cm (1″) deep. Sow 3 seeds in each spot you want a plant to grow and thin to the strongest plant. Space plants at a minimum of 90-120cm (36-48″) apart in rows 120-180cm (48-72″) apart. If starting transplants indoors, consider using the 12-cell plug inserts.
Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. These big plants need lots of food. Choose a sunny spot with fertile, well-draining soil. Dig in a generous quantity of finished compost and/or composted manure. Dig in 1 cup of complete organic fertilizer under each plant. All pumpkins grow male flowers first, then the female flowers are produced. The female flowers have tiny fruits at the base of the petals and require pollination by bees, mostly. Incomplete pollination is common at the beginning of the season, and results in small fruits that are misshapen at the flower end. Discard these damaged fruits before they rot.
For the largest pumpkins, feed weekly throughout the growing season with fish or kelp based fertilizer. Keep the huge plants well watered, particularly in hot weather. Always water the soil, and avoid any form of overhead watering other than rain. Fruit will grow larger if you keep only one fruit per vine. As the fruit develops, try to gently encourage it to grow at a 90° angle to the vine itself. The largest pumpkin varieties will grow on their sides.
Harvest: Like other winter squash, pumpkins are mature when they have coloured up well and their stems are crisp. For the best sugar content, cut the stem about 4cm (2″) or so from the body of the fruit. If the weather is dry, allow the pumpkins to cure in the field for 10 days, or in a warm room for 4-5 days. Bring pumpkins in under cover before rain.
Approx. 5 seeds
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Pumpkins – Dill’s Atlantic Giant – West Coast Seeds
$5.49Add to cartC. maxima. Dill’s Atlantic Giant pumpkin seeds hold the world record for giant pumpkins, and produce the largest fruit in the plant kingdom. Bred in eastern Canada by Howard Dill, Atlantic Giant can reach 1,000 lbs or more! The record is 2,624.6 lbs – updated for 2020! The really big ones look like big orange Volkswagen Beetles. These giants grow on very large plants, with vines up to 50′ long, so they require lots of room, full sun, and fertile soil to produce the giant pumpkins. For the largest size, prepare a growing area 20 x 20 feet, and dig down three feet. Fill this with soil mixed heavily with fully composted manure and glacial rock dust. Apply a balanced organic fertilizer at transplant time, and feed the plant every two weeks with liquid kelp or fish fertilizer. Once a fruit begins to grow, remove all female flowers that follow so that there is only one fruit per plant. Consider placing a tarp or board beneath the fruit as it develops in order to shift it once it is fully grown.
Timing: Direct sow or transplant in late spring once the soil is warm. For transplants, start seeds indoors during the first two weeks of May. Optimal soil temperature: 25-35°C (77-95°F). Seeds should germinate in 7-14 days.
Starting: Sow seeds 2cm (1″) deep. Sow 3 seeds in each spot you want a plant to grow and thin to the strongest plant. Space plants at a minimum of 90-120cm (36-48″) apart in rows 120-180cm (48-72″) apart. If starting transplants indoors, consider using the 12-cell plug inserts.
Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. These big plants need lots of food. Choose a sunny spot with fertile, well-draining soil. Dig in a generous quantity of finished compost and/or composted manure. Dig in 1 cup of complete organic fertilizer under each plant. All pumpkins grow male flowers first, then the female flowers are produced. The female flowers have tiny fruits at the base of the petals and require pollination by bees, mostly. Incomplete pollination is common at the beginning of the season, and results in small fruits that are misshapen at the flower end. Discard these damaged fruits before they rot.
For the largest pumpkins, feed weekly throughout the growing season with fish or kelp based fertilizer. Keep the huge plants well watered, particularly in hot weather. Always water the soil, and avoid any form of overhead watering other than rain. Fruit will grow larger if you keep only one fruit per vine. As the fruit develops, try to gently encourage it to grow at a 90° angle to the vine itself. The largest pumpkin varieties will grow on their sides.
Harvest: Like other winter squash, pumpkins are mature when they have coloured up well and their stems are crisp. For the best sugar content, cut the stem about 4cm (2″) or so from the body of the fruit. If the weather is dry, allow the pumpkins to cure in the field for 10 days, or in a warm room for 4-5 days. Bring pumpkins in under cover before rain.
Approx. 12 seeds
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Pumpkins – Bix Max – West Coast Seeds
$3.49Add to cartC. maxima. Give Big Max pumpkin seeds a good early start indoors in May and transplant them out once the soil is warm in June. Provide deeply dug, very fertile soil, and you can expect very large Jack-o-Lantern type pumpkins up to 23kg (50 lbs) each! For the real competition size pumpkins, go with Dill’s Atlantic Giant. But those require a lot of work and soil preparation. Meanwhile, Big Max will produce a pumpkin that kids of any age will be proud to call their grand champion. This variety is great fun to grow with children, but be prepared for the large size of the plants.
Timing: Direct sow or transplant in late spring once the soil is warm. For transplants, start seeds indoors during the first two weeks of May. Optimal soil temperature: 25-35°C (77-95°F). Seeds should germinate in 7-14 days.
Starting: Sow seeds 2cm (1″) deep. Sow 3 seeds in each spot you want a plant to grow and thin to the strongest plant. Space plants at a minimum of 90-120cm (36-48″) apart in rows 120-180cm (48-72″) apart. If starting transplants indoors, consider using the 12-cell plug inserts.
Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. These big plants need lots of food. Choose a sunny spot with fertile, well-draining soil. Dig in a generous quantity of finished compost and/or composted manure. Dig in 1 cup of complete organic fertilizer under each plant. All pumpkins grow male flowers first, then the female flowers are produced. The female flowers have tiny fruits at the base of the petals and require pollination by bees, mostly. Incomplete pollination is common at the beginning of the season, and results in small fruits that are misshapen at the flower end. Discard these damaged fruits before they rot.
For the largest pumpkins, feed weekly throughout the growing season with fish or kelp based fertilizer. Keep the huge plants well watered, particularly in hot weather. Always water the soil, and avoid any form of overhead watering other than rain. Fruit will grow larger if you keep only one fruit per vine. As the fruit develops, try to gently encourage it to grow at a 90° angle to the vine itself. The largest pumpkin varieties will grow on their sides.
Harvest: Like other winter squash, pumpkins are mature when they have coloured up well and their stems are crisp. For the best sugar content, cut the stem about 4cm (2″) or so from the body of the fruit. If the weather is dry, allow the pumpkins to cure in the field for 10 days, or in a warm room for 4-5 days. Bring pumpkins in under cover before rain.
Approx. 12 seeds
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Pumpkins – Galeux d’Eysines – West Coast Seeds
$4.99Add to cartC. maxima. Galeux d’Eysines pumpkin seeds produce a lovely French heirloom pumpkin with salmon pink coloured skin covered in peanut-like warts caused by sugar swelling in the skins. The somewhat flattened fruits resemble wheels of cheese, and average 7-10kg (10-15 lbs) each and can store for up to 6 months. Simply the best smooth texture of all the pumpkins for pies. It has a delicious flavour and very high sugar content at maturity. The flesh is bright, almost neon-orange, and very easy to extract for rendering down for your favourite pumpkin recipes.
Timing: Direct sow or transplant in late spring once the soil is warm. For transplants, start seeds indoors during the first two weeks of May. Optimal soil temperature: 25-35°C (77-95°F). Seeds should germinate in 7-14 days.
Starting: Sow seeds 2cm (1″) deep. Sow 3 seeds in each spot you want a plant to grow and thin to the strongest plant. Space plants at a minimum of 90-120cm (36-48″) apart in rows 120-180cm (48-72″) apart. If starting transplants indoors, consider using the 12-cell plug inserts.
Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. These big plants need lots of food. Choose a sunny spot with fertile, well-draining soil. Dig in a generous quantity of finished compost and/or composted manure. Dig in 1 cup of complete organic fertilizer under each plant. All pumpkins grow male flowers first, then the female flowers are produced. The female flowers have tiny fruits at the base of the petals and require pollination by bees, mostly. Incomplete pollination is common at the beginning of the season, and results in small fruits that are misshapen at the flower end. Discard these damaged fruits before they rot. For the largest pumpkins, feed weekly throughout the growing season with fish or kelp based fertilizer. Keep the huge plants well watered, particularly in hot weather. Always water the soil, and avoid any form of overhead watering other than rain. Fruit will grow larger if you keep only one fruit per vine. As the fruit develops, try to gently encourage it to grow at a 90° angle to the vine itself. The largest pumpkin varieties will grow on their sides.
Harvest: Like other winter squash, pumpkins are mature when they have coloured up well and their stems are crisp. For the best sugar content, cut the stem about 4cm (2″) or so from the body of the fruit. If the weather is dry, allow the pumpkins to cure in the field for 10 days, or in a warm room for 4-5 days. Bring pumpkins in under cover before rain.
Approx. 12 seeds
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Pumpkins – Grizzly Bear – West Coast Seeds
$5.49Add to cartThis unique tan pumpkin covered in tan warts will add interest to your pumpkin patch and fall porch displays. Grizzly Bear produces small-medium 2.25-3.5kg (5-8lb) fruit on long, vigorous vines that have intermediate resistance to Downy mildew.
Timing: Direct sow or transplant in late spring once the soil is warm. For transplants, start seeds indoors during the first two weeks of May. Optimal soil temperature: 25-35°C (77-95°F). Seeds should germinate in 7-14 days.
Starting: Sow seeds 2cm (1″) deep. Sow 3 seeds in each spot you want a plant to grow and thin to the strongest plant. Space plants at a minimum of 90-120cm (36-48″) apart in rows 120-180cm (48-72″) apart. If starting transplants indoors, consider using the 12-cell plug inserts.
Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. These big plants need lots of food. Choose a sunny spot with fertile, well-draining soil. Dig in a generous quantity of finished compost and/or composted manure. Dig in 1 cup of complete organic fertilizer under each plant. All pumpkins grow male flowers first, then the female flowers are produced. The female flowers have tiny fruits at the base of the petals and require pollination by bees, mostly. Incomplete pollination is common at the beginning of the season, and results in small fruits that are misshapen at the flower end. Discard these damaged fruits before they rot. For the largest pumpkins, feed weekly throughout the growing season with fish or kelp based fertilizer. Keep the huge plants well watered, particularly in hot weather. Always water the soil, and avoid any form of overhead watering other than rain. Fruit will grow larger if you keep only one fruit per vine. As the fruit develops, try to gently encourage it to grow at a 90° angle to the vine itself. The largest pumpkin varieties will grow on their sides.
Harvest: Like other winter squash, pumpkins are mature when they have coloured up well and their stems are crisp. For the best sugar content, cut the stem about 4cm (2″) or so from the body of the fruit. If the weather is dry, allow the pumpkins to cure in the field for 10 days, or in a warm room for 4-5 days. Bring pumpkins in under cover before rain.
Approx. 5 seeds
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Radish Daikon – Mini Purple – West Coast Seeds
$4.49Add to cartLovely white flesh streaked with purple, and deep purple skins are the product of Mini Purple Daikon radish seeds. The flavour of the root is quite mild compared with the spicy (edible) leaves. Expect 5 to 10% white off-types. This is the perfect variety for kimchi or pickles, and just a nice raw addition to salads for crunch and visual appeal. Learn when to plant radish seeds in our How to Grow Radish instructions by clicking on the tab below. Daikon radishes do best in cool weather so they’re a great crop for spring and fall growing, and can be harvested in the winter if grown with crop protection.
Timing: Radishes can be grown all season but they’re easiest when sown just after the last frost date and again at the end of summer and into the fall. Optimal soil temperature: 18-24°C (65-75°F). Seeds should sprout in 5-7 days.
Starting: Sow seeds 5mm (¼”) deep, 25 seeds per 30cm (12″) in rows spaced 30-45cm (12-18″) apart, and thin to 6-12 plants per 30cm (12″).
Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. Radishes are moderate to heavy feeders. Best in rich, loamy soil amended with composted manure. Add 1 cup of complete organic fertilizer for every 3m (10′) of row for background fertility. Lime beds the previous fall. The real secret to growing this little vegetable is speed. Sow a short row frequently, thin them quickly, keep them watered, eat them quickly, and sow some more.
Harvest: Harvest promptly when radishes are the size of large marbles. The leaves and developing seedpods are also tasty.
Approx. 25 seeds
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Radish Daikon – Mini Red – West Coast Seeds
$4.49Add to cartMini Red is also known as Shunkyo. The red radish of northern Chinese cuisine is both hot and sweet in flavour. It has bright red skin over tender, crisp, white flesh. The tops are delicious and spicy. This daikon is fast growing and slow to bolt, so it can be planted for spring or fall production. So and grow as you would turnips, thinning them to 15-20cm (6-8″) apart. Hybrid vigour brings uniformity and speedy growth to this lovely radish variety. For home gardeners on the coast, plan on sowing short rows three or four times in March and April, and again in September and October. This will result in a steady harvest, and they won’t all be ready to pick at once.
Timing: Radishes can be grown all season but they’re easiest when sown just after the last frost date and again at the end of summer and into the fall. Optimal soil temperature: 18-24°C (65-75°F). Seeds should sprout in 5-7 days.
Starting: Sow seeds 5mm (¼”) deep, 25 seeds per 30cm (12″) in rows spaced 30-45cm (12-18″) apart, and thin to 6-12 plants per 30cm (12″).
Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. Radishes are moderate to heavy feeders. Best in rich, loamy soil amended with composted manure. Add 1 cup of complete organic fertilizer for every 3m (10′) of row for background fertility. Lime beds the previous fall. The real secret to growing this little vegetable is speed. Sow a short row frequently, thin them quickly, keep them watered, eat them quickly, and sow some more.
Harvest: Harvest promptly when radishes are the size of large marbles. The leaves and developing seedpods are also tasty.
Approx. 25 seeds
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Radish – Rover – West Coast Seeds
$3.99Add to cartAdaptable round red radish with consistent performance spring through fall. Rover maintains its globe shape, crispy texture, and mild flavour through the heat of the summer. Uniform, dark red roots cut to clean, bright white interior. Our most reliable variety.
Timing: Radishes can be grown all season but they’re easiest when sown just after the last frost date and again at the end of summer and into the fall. Optimal soil temperature: 18-24°C (65-75°F). Seeds should sprout in 5-7 days.
Starting: Sow seeds 5mm (¼”) deep, 25 seeds per 30cm (12″) in rows spaced 30-45cm (12-18″) apart, and thin to 6-12 plants per 30cm (12″).
Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. Radishes are moderate to heavy feeders. Best in rich, loamy soil amended with composted manure. Add 1 cup of complete organic fertilizer for every 3m (10′) of row for background fertility. Lime beds the previous fall. The real secret to growing this little vegetable is speed. Sow a short row frequently, thin them quickly, keep them watered, eat them quickly, and sow some more.
Harvest: Harvest promptly when radishes are the size of large marbles. The leaves and developing seedpods are also tasty.
Approx. 100 seeds
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Spinach – Bloomsdale Savoy – West Coast Seeds
$3.49Add to cartThis great tasting heirloom spinach has thick, succulent, dark-green savoyed or crumpled leaves that are very sweet in salads or cooked. Bloomsdale Savoy is best planted in early spring and fall. If Bloomsdale Savoy spinach seeds are fall-planted, it will overwinter and produce much earlier than if it is spring-planted. Very fast growing plants with upright growth that can be mechanically harvested when necessary. This spinach has high resistance to blight and blue mold (BM). We recommend sowing spinach seeds in the third week in August on the coast. Enjoy a fall harvest, but only cut the leaves from the ground level. The following spring, you will get a huge harvest of incredibly early, tasty spinach before there are any pests around to compete with.
Timing: Spinach does best in cool weather. Direct sow in the period four weeks before, and three weeks after the last frost date. Spinach will bolt once days get long and hot. Some varieties grow enough to harvest before they bolt. For continuous supply, plant every 3 weeks. Sow again in the middle two weeks of August for a fall crop that, if cut at the soil level, will come back early the following spring where winters are mild. Shade summer-sown seed beds, keep very well watered, and sow more seeds than you need, as warm soil will reduce germination rates marginally. Thin seedlings, and use cloche protection as cold weather approaches. Late sowings like this can be harvested into December – in mild winters if cloche protection is provided. Optimal soil temperature: 5-20°C (45-70°F). Seeds should sprout in 7-14 days.
Starting: Sow seeds 1cm (1/2″) deep, 10 seeds per 30cm (12″), in rows 30-45cm (12-18″) apart. Thin to at least 5-8cm (2-3″) between plants, or further if you want larger leaves.
Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.5. This heavy feeder requires rich soil. Dig in ¼-½ cup balanced organic fertilizer beneath every 1m (3′) of row. Overwintering spinach requires well drained soil.
Harvest: For baby greens, pick when the leaves are 7-10cm (3-4″) long. Individual leaves can be picked at anytime, until the plant has started to bolt. Cut the whole spinach plant just above soil level.
Approx. 420 seeds
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Squash Kabocha – Futtsu Black Early – West Coast Seeds
$6.99Add to cartC. moschata. This is an old Japanese heirloom, cultivated for hundreds of years. Futtsu Black Early squash forms decorative and tasteful pumpkin-like fruits of medium size. A typical fruit from this unusual and highly prized squash weighs around 1.5kg (3 lbs). The fruits start out round and dark green — almost black — with deep ribs and some wrinkles. As they mature the fruits turn dusky grey-brown, and the nutty flavour and sweetness really improves. Cutting into this remarkable fruit releases a strong scent of cantaloupe. The squash will keep for months in storage. Plants grow 80-140cm (32-55″) wide, so provide lots of space as well as fertile soil. The fruits are eminently decorative for fall displays. Matures in 100-120 days. (Open-pollinated seeds)
Timing: Direct sow or transplant in late spring once the soil is warm. For transplants, start seeds indoors during the first two weeks of May. Optimal soil temperature: 25-35°C (77-95°F). Seeds should germinate in 7-14 days.
Starting: Sow seeds 2cm (1″) deep. Sow 3 seeds in each spot where you want a plant to grow, and thin to the strongest plant. Space summer squash 45-60cm (18-24″) apart in rows 90-120cm (36-48″) apart. Give winter squash and pumpkins even more room with a minimum of 90-120cm (36-48″) apart in rows 120-180cm (48-72″) apart.
Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. These big plants need lots of food. Use 1 cup of complete organic fertilizer worked into the soil beneath each plant. All squash grow male flowers first, at later female flowers. The female flowers have tiny fruits at the base of their petals and require pollination by bees mostly. Incomplete pollination often happens at the beginning of the season, and results in misshapen fruits that are withered at the blossom end. Just discard these damaged fruits before they begin to rot. Encourage bees to visit the garden by growing Phacelia, sunflowers, or buckwheat for improved pollination.
Approx. 5 seeds
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Squash Butternut – Victory – West Coast Seeds
$4.99Add to cartC. moschata. Victory Early Butternut squash was bred for speed, so it matures much earlier than the others. It’s the top choice for any short-season garden, producing before the onset of cold weather. The fruits are medium sized at around 18cm (7″) long, each weighing around 1.2kg (2.5 lbs). The flesh is fine and richly flavoured, without a lot of fibres. Avoid overhead watering with squash plants to delay the arrival of powdery mildew in late summer. Plant in rich, fertile soil in full sun and give each plant lots of room to grow in. Matures in 88 days. (Hybrid seeds)
Timing: Direct sow or transplant in late spring once the soil is warm. For transplants, start seeds indoors during the first two weeks of May. Optimal soil temperature: 25-35°C (77-95°F). Seeds should germinate in 7-14 days.
Starting: Sow seeds 2cm (1″) deep. Sow 3 seeds in each spot where you want a plant to grow, and thin to the strongest plant. Space summer squash 45-60cm (18-24″) apart in rows 90-120cm (36-48″) apart. Give winter squash and pumpkins even more room with a minimum of 90-120cm (36-48″) apart in rows 120-180cm (48-72″) apart.
Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. These big plants need lots of food. Use 1 cup of complete organic fertilizer worked into the soil beneath each plant. All squash grow male flowers first, at later female flowers. The female flowers have tiny fruits at the base of their petals and require pollination by bees mostly. Incomplete pollination often happens at the beginning of the season, and results in misshapen fruits that are withered at the blossom end. Just discard these damaged fruits before they begin to rot. Encourage bees to visit the garden by growing Phacelia, sunflowers, or buckwheat for improved pollination.
Approx. 10 seeds
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Squash Butternut – Autumn Gold – West Coast Seeds
$6.49Add to cartGorgeous petite golden butternut that tastes as good as it looks. Autumn Gold is both ornamental and edible with its bright golden skin accented by cream-coloured streaks. Uniform fruit is early to mature at 1-1.4kg (2-3lb). Harvest immediately as fruit may crack if left on the plants. Compact semi-vining plants.
Timing: Direct sow or transplant in late spring once the soil is warm. For transplants, start seeds indoors during the first two weeks of May. Optimal soil temperature: 25-35°C (77-95°F). Seeds should germinate in 7-14 days.
Starting: Sow seeds 2cm (1″) deep. Sow 3 seeds in each spot where you want a plant to grow, and thin to the strongest plant. Space summer squash 45-60cm (18-24″) apart in rows 90-120cm (36-48″) apart. Give winter squash and pumpkins even more room with a minimum of 90-120cm (36-48″) apart in rows 120-180cm (48-72″) apart.
Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. These big plants need lots of food. Use 1 cup of complete organic fertilizer worked into the soil beneath each plant. All squash grow male flowers first, at later female flowers. The female flowers have tiny fruits at the base of their petals and require pollination by bees mostly. Incomplete pollination often happens at the beginning of the season, and results in misshapen fruits that are withered at the blossom end. Just discard these damaged fruits before they begin to rot. Encourage bees to visit the garden by growing Phacelia, sunflowers, or buckwheat for improved pollination.
Storage: Field-cure for 10 days in the sun, or cure indoors in a warm room for 4 or 5 days. To prevent mould sponge the skins with a solution of 10 parts water to 1 part chlorine bleach. Store at 10-15ºC (50-60ºF) with low humidity with good air circulation. Try on a shelf in the garage.
Diseases & Pests: Bacterial wilt (Erwinia tracheiphila) – Remove and destroy infested plants. If striped or spotted cucumber beetles appear, control as early as possible. Powdery mildew – avoid wetting foliage if possible. Water early in the day so that above ground parts of the plants dry as quickly as possible. Avoid crowding plants and eliminate weeds around plants and garden area to improve air circulation. Viral disease – remove and destroy entire infested plant along with immediately surrounding soil and soil clinging to roots.
Approx. 10 seeds
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Swiss Chard – Celebration – West Coast Seeds
$4.99Add to cartGrow this gorgeous chard for fantastic colour! Celebration Swiss chard produces thick red, yellow, rose, gold, and white stems that bear slightly savoyed leaves of burgundy and green. Celebration Swiss chard seeds can be planted in large containers and always makes vivid colour on your table. The colours are richest at full maturity, so give it some time to deliver the rainbow effect. The immature leaves are tender and excellent in salads, while the cooked mature leaves and stalks have a flavour that is milder than cooked spinach, and packed with nutrients. This variety replaces Bright Lights. Matures in 60 days. (Open-pollinated seeds)
Timing: Direct sow any time from early spring to mid-summer. Chard is moderately winter hardy and may perform into the following spring where winters are mild. Optimal soil temperature: 10-30°C (50-85°F). Seeds should sprout in 7-14 days.
Starting: Sow seeds 1cm (½”) deep, spaced 10-30cm (4-12″) apart in rows 45cm (18″) apart.
Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.5. Swiss chard prefers loose, deep, and fertile soil that is rich in organic matter. Plenty of consistent moisture is required, especially as plants grow larger. It grows best in full sun, but will tolerate light shade in summer. A liquid fertilizer or compost tea applied twice during summer will keep chard growing well.
Harvest: For salad mix, seed more densely and cut as baby leaves. Cut individual mature stalks using the large outer ones first.
Approx. 250 seeds
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Swiss Chard – Fordhook Giant – West Coast Seeds
$3.49Add to cartFordhook Giant Swiss chard seeds produce dark green, very savoyed leaves are borne on thick, greenish-white stalks. This cold-hardy variety is versatile, reliable, decorative and flavourful. It can also stand up well in summer heat. The Fordhook in its name refers to Fordhook Farm, which was a research farm run for the Burpee seed company from the 1750s until 1981. It’s called Giant because the leaves rise a full 60 to 70cm (24-28″) above the ground, with stalks that are 7cm (2.5″) wide. Fordhook Giant Swiss chard seeds perform well, and provide abundant crops all season, even after light frost. It is noted to be particularly good for poultry feed as well. Winner of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. Matures in 60 days. (Open-pollinated seeds)
Timing: Direct sow any time from early spring to mid-summer. Chard is moderately winter hardy and may perform into the following spring where winters are mild. Optimal soil temperature: 10-30°C (50-85°F). Seeds should sprout in 7-14 days.
Starting: Sow seeds 1cm (½”) deep, spaced 10-30cm (4-12″) apart in rows 45cm (18″) apart.
Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.5. Swiss chard prefers loose, deep, and fertile soil that is rich in organic matter. Plenty of consistent moisture is required, especially as plants grow larger. It grows best in full sun, but will tolerate light shade in summer. A liquid fertilizer or compost tea applied twice during summer will keep chard growing well.
Harvest: For salad mix, seed more densely and cut as baby leaves. Cut individual mature stalks using the large outer ones first.
Approx. 175 seeds
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Swiss Chard – Eldorado – West Coast Seeds
$3.99Add to cartThis is one of the most upright growing and attractive of all the chards. Eldorado Swiss chard is a luxurious looking plant with stems of gold and leaves that are dark green, deeply savoyed, with wavy margins. The thin stems branch into veins on the leaves but keep their gold colour for a high contrast look. This variety will produce gorgeous microgreens in just two weeks. By 30 days, it is ready to eat as baby greens. By 55-60 days, it’s ready for the market table – or dinner table. Grow in cool weather for best results. If grown from winter into summer it has a higher rate of bolting. Matures in 55-60 days. (Open pollinated seeds)
Timing: Direct sow any time from early spring to mid-summer. Chard is moderately winter hardy and may perform into the following spring where winters are mild. Optimal soil temperature: 10-30°C (50-85°F). Seeds should sprout in 7-14 days.
Starting: Sow seeds 1cm (½”) deep, spaced 10-30cm (4-12″) apart in rows 45cm (18″) apart.
Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.5. Swiss chard prefers loose, deep, and fertile soil that is rich in organic matter. Plenty of consistent moisture is required, especially as plants grow larger. It grows best in full sun, but will tolerate light shade in summer. A liquid fertilizer or compost tea applied twice during summer will keep chard growing well.
Harvest: For salad mix, seed more densely and cut as baby leaves. Cut individual mature stalks using the large outer ones first.
Approx. 230 seeds
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Corn – Caramel Crisp – West Coast Seeds
$3.99Add to cartOriginally bred for the caramel popcorn industry, this corn produces single, large cobs with kernels that pop into huge, uniquely mushroom-shaped popcorn. This sugary (su) variety has excellent disease tolerance and is popular in the confectionary industry.
Great flavour and large size ensure that these are a treat for snacking even without a caramel coating. The unique shape helps the delicious caramel coating to cling to the popped kernel.
Timing: Direct sow in late spring. If the soil is not warm enough, seeds often rot before sprouting – especially when not treated with fungicide. Untreated corn seeds should be planted only when the soil has warmed up above 18°C (65°F) – warmer for super-sweet (sh2) types, and even warmer for a good stand. Use a soil thermometer. If spring weather is cold, consider planting in flats or individual pots, indoors with bottom heat, for transplanting. Seeds should germinate in 7-10 days. If it rains after planting and corn does not emerge, just re-plant the area.
Starting: Do not soak corn seeds prior to planting. Plant 2-5cm (1-2″) deep (shallower for sh2 seed or in cool soil). Sow seeds around 7.5cm (3″) apart, in rows 60-90cm (24-36″) apart. Because corn is wind pollinated, plant in a dense block of at least 4 rows, rather than in single rows. This increases the chance of corn pollen, which emerges from male flowers at the growing tip, to fall down onto the receptive female silks that extend from each corn cob.
Growing: Ideal pH: 5.8-6.8. Corn is a heavy feeder, so add manure or compost, and use 500g (1 lb) of complete organic fertilizer per 6m (60′) of row, mixing it thoroughly into the soil beneath each seed furrow. Thin to at least 20-25cm (8-10″) apart in the row. Large eared and double-eared varieties need to be 30cm (24″) apart. Keep free of weeds until knee-high, and then leave it alone.
Use the days to maturity listed for comparative purposes among the varieties only – every garden may be different.
Harvest: When the silks at the end of an ear are a dry brown, the cob seems to start to droop, and the kernels release milky juice when cut.
Pests: Wireworms are a pest in home gardens and may burrow into the seeds. Loopers are pale olive-green caterpillars up to 2.5cm (1″) long. They chew into the centre of young corn plants and can kill the plant if the growing tip is damaged. Seed corn maggot is a small, legless maggot that attacks germinating seed. Planting in warm soil or using predatory nematodes may help prevent seed-destroying soil creatures.
Approx. 50 seeds
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Tomato Beefsteak – Pork Chop Organic – West Coast Seeds
$4.49Add to cartThis stunning beefsteak tomato is sure to impress! Yellow with shining gold stripes at maturity, Pork Chop’s large, slightly flattened, 225-340g (8-12oz) globes are full of flavour that is sweet with just a hint of citrus. Indeterminate plants.
75 Days.
Approx: 10 Seeds.
How To Grow, Timing: Start indoors in early spring over bottom heat. When seedlings germinate, remove from the heat and grow under bright lights. Grow seedlings on for 6-8 weeks at around 10°C. Early season tomatoes can be planted out once night time temperatures are reliably above 7°C – or later. Other types should be transplanted out when night time lows are 10°C or warmer – or later. Optimal soil temperature for germination: 25-35°C. With bottom heat seeds should germinate in 7-14 days.
How To Grow, Starting: Sow seeds 5mm-1cm deep. Keep seedlings under very bright light to prevent legginess. You may have to pot on seedlings more than once before they go out to allow for root growth. Space bush (determinate) transplants 45-60cm apart and vine (indeterminate) types 50-75cm apart in rows 1m apart.
How to Grow, Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. Tomatoes like fertile, well drained soil that is rich in organic matter. Dig in finished compost and manure, and add 1 cup balanced organic fertilizer beneath each transplant. The nutrition from heavy clay soils is excellent for tomatoes, but they are slow to warm, so transplanting should be done later. By the same token, lighter soils warm more quickly, so transplants can go out sooner. Adding glacial rock dust will supply all the calcium they will need. Regular watering is vital, but don’t let the plants sit in water. Tomatoes are tropical plants so they require full sun and lots of heat. Vine varieties will require some kind of support such as a wire to grow up, or a trellis to be tied to as the plant grows. Bush types benefit from the support of a tomato cage in order to prevent sprawling. At the time of final transplant, plants can be buried up to their first pair of true leaves. This will encourage greater root growth, helping with both nutrient uptake and the plants’ ability to stand up to dry conditions.
Stop watering around the end of July to encourage the fruit to ripen. If tomato plants are grown under cover, you can encourage pollination and fruit set by tapping the stem from time to time. Tomatoes do not rely on insects for pollination. Vibrating the plant shakes pollen loose within the flowers, which then self-pollinate.Indeterminate tomatoes continue to grow and produce fruit until they are killed by frost. Remove any suckers (stems growing from the crotch of leaves) to keep the foliage under control, and they will set a later crop of larger fruit. Determinate varieties normally set fruit in a concentrated time period. Their suckers are not normally removed, though some trimming helps with ventilation.
How to Grow, Harvest: Harvest when the fruit is the desired colour. Green tomatoes can be ripened indoors at a cool temperature when they are blemish free. Very dark green tomatoes are unlikely to ripen fully.
How To Grow, Disease & Pests: Blossom End Rot is an environmental disorder caused by a calcium deficiency. As the name of the disorder indicates it occurs at the blossom end of the fruit. It appears as a brownish dry and firm sunken area. Sometimes a secondary infection can occur at the damaged area, which turns it mushy and wet. Internal blackening can occur without the characteristic end rot. Calcium deficiency can happen when there is uneven watering. When the plants are too dry for a period followed by over watering, this encourages fast growth. The tomato plant can’t take up enough calcium resulting in an unbalanced potassium-to-calcium ratio. Early fruit show the affects sooner than later fruit. Digging in bonemeal, dolomite lime and a balanced organic fertilizer such as Gaia All Purpose Blend 4-4-4 will help prevent this disease as will an even and regular watering schedule.
An airborne fungal disease causes Late Blight. It begins as leaf spots before spreading to stems and fruit. Water soaked areas appear on the leaves. These are greenish black and irregular in shape. Brown cankers develop on the stems and fruit. Blight infected tomatoes can have a fishy smell. Often the fruit manages to almost reach maturity before the cankers take over. Sometimes a bluish grey mould grows on the underside of infected leaves and on the fruit cankers.
Prevention is key as there is no cure for the disease. Keep moisture off the plants. Use drip tape for watering and avoid splashing the leaves. Our cloche system is excellent for keeping rain and moisture off the plants. In a greenhouse or under a cloche, humidity can build up so high that the fungus will destroy plants in 24 hours. You must ventilate well.
Bordo Copper Spray applied regularly in late summer prevents the fungus that causes Late Blight to germinate. If applied with the OMRI listed Superflow Natural Surfactant the copper spray will stay on longer and there will be less need to apply other than after each rainfall or heavy dew.
Phytopthera infestans is the fungus that infects tomatoes and potatoes, and is dreadful on the Coast. Greyish black areas appear first on stems and leaves, moving rapidly to kill the plant. The critical factor is moisture. Blight infects tomato plants with leaves and stems that are moist for over 48 hours. Moisture can be from rain, heavy dew, high humidity in a greenhouse or cover, condensation, or irrigation water. Once you know this, you can plan a shelter under an overhanging eve, on a porch or under a structure that you create. The protection must have excellent ventilation and must give you access to pick and prune your tomatoes. Consider growing your tomatoes in containers that can be moved to sheltered spots out of the rain.
Late blight overwinters in tomato and potato debris. Do not plant in a bed used to grow tomatoes or potatoes last year, and dispose of diseased plants in the garbage not the compost. Copper spray can prevent the fungus from infecting the plant. Plants must be sprayed every 7-10 days before any symptoms appear. Blight strikes in the rains of late summer, so choose at least one variety that will ripen before the deluge. The best advice we can offer to avoid blight is to grow early ripening bush varieties and to protect your vines carefully.
Flea Beetles make many tiny holes in the tomato leaves. They can cause problems for small tender transplants but a healthy plant can usually outgrow the damage. Use our Floating Row Cover for early season protection from Flea Beetles when transplanting your tomatoes.
How to Grow, Companion Planting: Another sensitive plant when it comes to companions, tomatoes benefit from asparagus, basil, beans, borage, carrots, celery, chives, collards, cucumber, garlic, lettuce, marigold, mint, nasturtium, onion, parsley, and peppers. Avoid planting alongside Brassicas and dill. Corn will attract tomato pests, and kohlrabi will stunt tomatoes’ growth. Potatoes may spread blight to tomatoes, so keep them apart. Do no plant tomatoes near walnut trees.
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Tomato Slicer – Get Stuffed Organic – West Coast Seeds
$4.49Add to cartCERTIFIED ORGANIC! Large, substantial fruits grow in clusters of three to four on sturdy, relatively short vines. Get Stuffed Organic features blocky, striped fruits that are almost the shape of a bell pepper. They can be hollowed and stuffed for cooking, or used raw as a delicious, edible serving vessel. They were a big hit in our tomato trials and are worth growing for their beautiful appearance alone.
Indeterminate (vine)
75 Days.
Approx: 30 Seeds.
How To Grow, Timing: Start indoors in early spring over bottom heat. When seedlings germinate, remove from the heat and grow under bright lights. Grow seedlings on for 6-8 weeks at around 10°C. Early season tomatoes can be planted out once night time temperatures are reliably above 7°C – or later. Other types should be transplanted out when night time lows are 10°C or warmer – or later. Optimal soil temperature for germination: 25-35°C. With bottom heat seeds should germinate in 7-14 days.
How To Grow, Starting: Sow seeds 5mm-1cm deep. Keep seedlings under very bright light to prevent legginess. You may have to pot on seedlings more than once before they go out to allow for root growth. Space bush (determinate) transplants 45-60cm apart and vine (indeterminate) types 50-75cm apart in rows 1m apart.
How to Grow, Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. Tomatoes like fertile, well drained soil that is rich in organic matter. Dig in finished compost and manure, and add 1 cup balanced organic fertilizer beneath each transplant. The nutrition from heavy clay soils is excellent for tomatoes, but they are slow to warm, so transplanting should be done later. By the same token, lighter soils warm more quickly, so transplants can go out sooner. Adding glacial rock dust will supply all the calcium they will need. Regular watering is vital, but don’t let the plants sit in water. Tomatoes are tropical plants so they require full sun and lots of heat. Vine varieties will require some kind of support such as a wire to grow up, or a trellis to be tied to as the plant grows. Bush types benefit from the support of a tomato cage in order to prevent sprawling. At the time of final transplant, plants can be buried up to their first pair of true leaves. This will encourage greater root growth, helping with both nutrient uptake and the plants’ ability to stand up to dry conditions.
Stop watering around the end of July to encourage the fruit to ripen. If tomato plants are grown under cover, you can encourage pollination and fruit set by tapping the stem from time to time. Tomatoes do not rely on insects for pollination. Vibrating the plant shakes pollen loose within the flowers, which then self-pollinate.Indeterminate tomatoes continue to grow and produce fruit until they are killed by frost. Remove any suckers (stems growing from the crotch of leaves) to keep the foliage under control, and they will set a later crop of larger fruit. Determinate varieties normally set fruit in a concentrated time period. Their suckers are not normally removed, though some trimming helps with ventilation.
How to Grow, Harvest: Harvest when the fruit is the desired colour. Green tomatoes can be ripened indoors at a cool temperature when they are blemish free. Very dark green tomatoes are unlikely to ripen fully.
How To Grow, Disease & Pests: Blossom End Rot is an environmental disorder caused by a calcium deficiency. As the name of the disorder indicates it occurs at the blossom end of the fruit. It appears as a brownish dry and firm sunken area. Sometimes a secondary infection can occur at the damaged area, which turns it mushy and wet. Internal blackening can occur without the characteristic end rot. Calcium deficiency can happen when there is uneven watering. When the plants are too dry for a period followed by over watering, this encourages fast growth. The tomato plant can’t take up enough calcium resulting in an unbalanced potassium-to-calcium ratio. Early fruit show the affects sooner than later fruit. Digging in bonemeal, dolomite lime and a balanced organic fertilizer such as Gaia All Purpose Blend 4-4-4 will help prevent this disease as will an even and regular watering schedule.
An airborne fungal disease causes Late Blight. It begins as leaf spots before spreading to stems and fruit. Water soaked areas appear on the leaves. These are greenish black and irregular in shape. Brown cankers develop on the stems and fruit. Blight infected tomatoes can have a fishy smell. Often the fruit manages to almost reach maturity before the cankers take over. Sometimes a bluish grey mould grows on the underside of infected leaves and on the fruit cankers.
Prevention is key as there is no cure for the disease. Keep moisture off the plants. Use drip tape for watering and avoid splashing the leaves. Our cloche system is excellent for keeping rain and moisture off the plants. In a greenhouse or under a cloche, humidity can build up so high that the fungus will destroy plants in 24 hours. You must ventilate well.
Bordo Copper Spray applied regularly in late summer prevents the fungus that causes Late Blight to germinate. If applied with the OMRI listed Superflow Natural Surfactant the copper spray will stay on longer and there will be less need to apply other than after each rainfall or heavy dew.
Phytopthera infestans is the fungus that infects tomatoes and potatoes, and is dreadful on the Coast. Greyish black areas appear first on stems and leaves, moving rapidly to kill the plant. The critical factor is moisture. Blight infects tomato plants with leaves and stems that are moist for over 48 hours. Moisture can be from rain, heavy dew, high humidity in a greenhouse or cover, condensation, or irrigation water. Once you know this, you can plan a shelter under an overhanging eve, on a porch or under a structure that you create. The protection must have excellent ventilation and must give you access to pick and prune your tomatoes. Consider growing your tomatoes in containers that can be moved to sheltered spots out of the rain.
Late blight overwinters in tomato and potato debris. Do not plant in a bed used to grow tomatoes or potatoes last year, and dispose of diseased plants in the garbage not the compost. Copper spray can prevent the fungus from infecting the plant. Plants must be sprayed every 7-10 days before any symptoms appear. Blight strikes in the rains of late summer, so choose at least one variety that will ripen before the deluge. The best advice we can offer to avoid blight is to grow early ripening bush varieties and to protect your vines carefully.
Flea Beetles make many tiny holes in the tomato leaves. They can cause problems for small tender transplants but a healthy plant can usually outgrow the damage. Use our Floating Row Cover for early season protection from Flea Beetles when transplanting your tomatoes.
How to Grow, Companion Planting: Another sensitive plant when it comes to companions, tomatoes benefit from asparagus, basil, beans, borage, carrots, celery, chives, collards, cucumber, garlic, lettuce, marigold, mint, nasturtium, onion, parsley, and peppers. Avoid planting alongside Brassicas and dill. Corn will attract tomato pests, and kohlrabi will stunt tomatoes’ growth. Potatoes may spread blight to tomatoes, so keep them apart. Do no plant tomatoes near walnut trees.
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Tomato Cherry – Black Cherry – West Coast Seeds
$4.69Add to cartBlack Cherry tomato seeds produce hardy, vigorous vines loaded with gorgeous purple to mahogany brown cherry tomatoes 2.5 cm round. Enjoy prolific yields all season long! Rich, juicy cherry tomatoes with wonderfully complex, sweet flavour and firm texture. The little fruits of this variety look exotic and taste irresistibly delicious. A great snacking tomato, excellent in bruschetta.
Plants typically grow at least 150 cm and require caging or staking for support. For best results, allow these cherry tomatoes to ripen on the vine, and harvest regularly. Fruits are ripe when they turn dark red/brown in colour and they pop readily off the stem with a roll of the fingers.
Indeterminate (vine)
65 Days.
Approx: 25 Seeds.
How To Grow, Timing: Start indoors in early spring over bottom heat. When seedlings germinate, remove from the heat and grow under bright lights. Grow seedlings on for 6-8 weeks at around 10°C. Early season tomatoes can be planted out once night time temperatures are reliably above 7°C – or later. Other types should be transplanted out when night time lows are 10°C or warmer – or later. Optimal soil temperature for germination: 25-35°C. With bottom heat seeds should germinate in 7-14 days.
How To Grow, Starting: Sow seeds 5mm-1cm deep. Keep seedlings under very bright light to prevent legginess. You may have to pot on seedlings more than once before they go out to allow for root growth. Space bush (determinate) transplants 45-60cm apart and vine (indeterminate) types 50-75cm apart in rows 1m apart.
How to Grow, Growing: Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. Tomatoes like fertile, well drained soil that is rich in organic matter. Dig in finished compost and manure, and add 1 cup balanced organic fertilizer beneath each transplant. The nutrition from heavy clay soils is excellent for tomatoes, but they are slow to warm, so transplanting should be done later. By the same token, lighter soils warm more quickly, so transplants can go out sooner. Adding glacial rock dust will supply all the calcium they will need. Regular watering is vital, but don’t let the plants sit in water. Tomatoes are tropical plants so they require full sun and lots of heat. Vine varieties will require some kind of support such as a wire to grow up, or a trellis to be tied to as the plant grows. Bush types benefit from the support of a tomato cage in order to prevent sprawling. At the time of final transplant, plants can be buried up to their first pair of true leaves. This will encourage greater root growth, helping with both nutrient uptake and the plants’ ability to stand up to dry conditions.
Stop watering around the end of July to encourage the fruit to ripen. If tomato plants are grown under cover, you can encourage pollination and fruit set by tapping the stem from time to time. Tomatoes do not rely on insects for pollination. Vibrating the plant shakes pollen loose within the flowers, which then self-pollinate.Indeterminate tomatoes continue to grow and produce fruit until they are killed by frost. Remove any suckers (stems growing from the crotch of leaves) to keep the foliage under control, and they will set a later crop of larger fruit. Determinate varieties normally set fruit in a concentrated time period. Their suckers are not normally removed, though some trimming helps with ventilation.
How to Grow, Harvest: Harvest when the fruit is the desired colour. Green tomatoes can be ripened indoors at a cool temperature when they are blemish free. Very dark green tomatoes are unlikely to ripen fully.
How To Grow, Disease & Pests: Blossom End Rot is an environmental disorder caused by a calcium deficiency. As the name of the disorder indicates it occurs at the blossom end of the fruit. It appears as a brownish dry and firm sunken area. Sometimes a secondary infection can occur at the damaged area, which turns it mushy and wet. Internal blackening can occur without the characteristic end rot. Calcium deficiency can happen when there is uneven watering. When the plants are too dry for a period followed by over watering, this encourages fast growth. The tomato plant can’t take up enough calcium resulting in an unbalanced potassium-to-calcium ratio. Early fruit show the affects sooner than later fruit. Digging in bonemeal, dolomite lime and a balanced organic fertilizer such as Gaia All Purpose Blend 4-4-4 will help prevent this disease as will an even and regular watering schedule.
An airborne fungal disease causes Late Blight. It begins as leaf spots before spreading to stems and fruit. Water soaked areas appear on the leaves. These are greenish black and irregular in shape. Brown cankers develop on the stems and fruit. Blight infected tomatoes can have a fishy smell. Often the fruit manages to almost reach maturity before the cankers take over. Sometimes a bluish grey mould grows on the underside of infected leaves and on the fruit cankers.
Prevention is key as there is no cure for the disease. Keep moisture off the plants. Use drip tape for watering and avoid splashing the leaves. Our cloche system is excellent for keeping rain and moisture off the plants. In a greenhouse or under a cloche, humidity can build up so high that the fungus will destroy plants in 24 hours. You must ventilate well.
Bordo Copper Spray applied regularly in late summer prevents the fungus that causes Late Blight to germinate. If applied with the OMRI listed Superflow Natural Surfactant the copper spray will stay on longer and there will be less need to apply other than after each rainfall or heavy dew.
Phytopthera infestans is the fungus that infects tomatoes and potatoes, and is dreadful on the Coast. Greyish black areas appear first on stems and leaves, moving rapidly to kill the plant. The critical factor is moisture. Blight infects tomato plants with leaves and stems that are moist for over 48 hours. Moisture can be from rain, heavy dew, high humidity in a greenhouse or cover, condensation, or irrigation water. Once you know this, you can plan a shelter under an overhanging eve, on a porch or under a structure that you create. The protection must have excellent ventilation and must give you access to pick and prune your tomatoes. Consider growing your tomatoes in containers that can be moved to sheltered spots out of the rain.
Late blight overwinters in tomato and potato debris. Do not plant in a bed used to grow tomatoes or potatoes last year, and dispose of diseased plants in the garbage not the compost. Copper spray can prevent the fungus from infecting the plant. Plants must be sprayed every 7-10 days before any symptoms appear. Blight strikes in the rains of late summer, so choose at least one variety that will ripen before the deluge. The best advice we can offer to avoid blight is to grow early ripening bush varieties and to protect your vines carefully.
Flea Beetles make many tiny holes in the tomato leaves. They can cause problems for small tender transplants but a healthy plant can usually outgrow the damage. Use our Floating Row Cover for early season protection from Flea Beetles when transplanting your tomatoes.
How to Grow, Companion Planting: Another sensitive plant when it comes to companions, tomatoes benefit from asparagus, basil, beans, borage, carrots, celery, chives, collards, cucumber, garlic, lettuce, marigold, mint, nasturtium, onion, parsley, and peppers. Avoid planting alongside Brassicas and dill. Corn will attract tomato pests, and kohlrabi will stunt tomatoes’ growth. Potatoes may spread blight to tomatoes, so keep them apart. Do no plant tomatoes near walnut trees.
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Chard Heirloom – Italian Silver Rib – Renee’s Garden
$4.19Add to cartA long-time favorite of Italian cooks for its flavor and substance, this fine variety has wide, crisp, silvery-white midribs and crinkled, shiny green leaves. The large-framed, handsome plants grow easily and vigorously from spring through late fall. Heirloom Silver Rib produces an abundance of big succulent leaves with sweet crunchy stalks to enjoy as mild, mellow-tasting greens. You’ll find it consistently delicious simply steamed with fresh lemon, sautéed with aromatics or added to stir-fries, soups, and casseroles.
Approx: 155 Seeds.
Non GMO
START SEEDS OUTDOORS
In early spring when danger of hard frost is over, sow seeds in well-worked, fertile soil in full sun. Sow seeds 1/2 inch deep and 2 inches apart in rows 10 inches apart, or broadcast very thinly for bed planting. Firm soil well over these irregularly shaped seeds to ensure good germination. If first sowing germinates unevenly, plant more seed in the rows as seedlings catch up quickly. Thin when seedlings are large enough to handle, using thinnings as early greens. Final spacing should be 12 to 18 inches apart so chard plants have room to mature.
GROWING NOTES
Chard grows well in a wide range of conditions and can take some frost. In mild winter areas, it can be grown year round. Thin seedlings well as chard grows into large vase-shaped plants 2 feet tall.
HARVEST AND USE
Begin harvesting when plants are well established and have 6 to 8 stalks. Both the crunchy succulent stalks and leaves make great eating. Chop and sauté chard with garlic and olive oil or pair with sautéed mushrooms and onions. Try steamed and topped with a sprinkle of vinegar or fresh lemon juice. Use like spinach in lasagna or minestrone soup.
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Cabbage Baby Napa – Little Jade – Renee’s Garden
$6.19Add to cartOur top-quality mini Napa or “Chinese” cabbage has juicy, tangy-sweet flesh and a delicious cool and crispy texture. Extremely vigorous, with excellent disease resistance, Little Jade plants form dense, vase-shaped 8 to 10 inch heads. Enjoy the versatile and nutritious crunchy stalks as a snack, with dips or in coleslaw. Stirfry for everyday meals; sauté quickly with garlic and ginger and add a handful of toasted peanuts or cashews and a splash of hot sauce. Or consider making your own kimchi!
Approx: 54 Seeds.
Non GMO
TO START INDOORS
Start seeds 4 to 5 weeks before last spring frost. Sow 1 inch apart in seed starting mix, cover 1/4 inch deep and keep evenly moist. Provide a strong light source until seedlings are ready to plant out. When several inches tall, transplant seedlings 10 inches apart into rich soil in full sun, after gradually acclimating to outdoor conditions.
TO START DIRECTLY OUTDOORS
When all danger of frost is over, plant in well-worked, fertile soil in full sun. Sow clusters of 2 to 3 seeds 10 inches apart in rows spaced 1 foot apart. When seedlings are several inches tall, thin to 1 strong plant every 10 inches. In mild winter climates, sow seeds again at midsummer for a fall crop.
GROWING NOTES
Baby Napa cabbage needs full sun and rich, well-drained soil to produce firm, sweet heads. To avoid stunting growth, don’t let seedlings get crowded before thinning or transplanting. Keep weeded and evenly watered. Feed monthly with fish emulsion or an all-purpose fertilizer; strongly growing, healthy plants resist pests much more successfully. Use non-toxic B.T. (Bacillus thuringiensis) for caterpillar pests. Floating row covers provide a good barrier method to exclude pests. Remove covers when heads begin to form.
HARVEST AND USE
Cut the 8 to10 inch tall vase-shaped heads when they are very solid and well-formed and about 4 to 6 inches wide.
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Kale Heirloom Italian – Tuscan Baby Leaf – Renee’s Garden
$6.19Add to cartImported from Italy, our Tuscan kale strain is the fastest growing and best tasting for baby leaf salads. Easily grown by the “cut and come again” method, seeds are sown thickly, then cut as needed when just 4 to 5 inches tall, leaving the crowns to regrow for multiple additional harvests. Baby leaf kale has a much more tender texture and milder sweet flavor than mature kale and makes a wonderful fresh salad.
Approx: 1120 Seeds.
Non GMO
BEST TO START DIRECTLY OUTDOORS
Beginning in early spring, sow seeds in finely worked soil in full sun. Shake seeds loosely from your hand, broadcasting about 1 inch apart over the entire seedbed or in wide rows, and cover lightly and evenly with 1/4 inch of fine soil. Firm soil gently and water in with a fine spray, then keep seedbed evenly moist. Make successive sowings every 3 weeks until summer weather turns really hot for a constant supply. Plant again in late summer for fall harvesting.
GROWING NOTES
For best flavor, kale needs consistent moisture and mild weather conditions. Birds love tender young kale seedlings, so protect them as necessary with netting or floating row covers. This attractive edible will also grow well in pots at least 18 to 20 inches across to snip as needed for salads or stir-fry.
HARVEST AND USE
To harvest by the “cut and come again” method: when plants are 4 to 5 inches tall, cut as much as you need, by using scissors to shear off leaves 1 to 2 inches above the soil level. Water well and fertilize lightly and plants will regrow for several more cuttings. These tasty and highly nutritious leaves are delicious used as fresh salads, especially with a handful of chopped nuts and fruit like apples or pears. Or stir-fry very quickly for healthy quick greens.
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Chard Tender – Special Baby Leaf – Renee’s Garden
$5.19Add to cartOur crispy, nutty-flavored Baby Leaf chard is the fastest growing and best tasting, whether you use it in salads or steam, stirfry or braise its handsome green leaves. Easily grown by the “cut and come again” method, seeds are sown thickly, then cut as needed at 4-5 inches tall, leaving crowns to regrow for multiple additional harvests. With its tender texture and milder flavor, baby leaf chard makes wonderful garden- fresh salads.
Approx: 738 Seeds.
Non GMO
BEST TO START DIRECTLY OUTDOORS
Beginning in early spring, sow seeds in finely worked soil in full sun. Shake seeds loosely from your hand, broadcasting about 1 inch apart over the entire seedbed or in wide rows, and cover lightly and evenly with 1/4 to 1/2 inch of fine soil. Firm soil gently and water in with a fine spray, then keep seedbed evenly moist. For a constant supply, makes successive sowings every three weeks until summer weather turns really hot. Plant again in late summer for fall harvesting.
GROWING NOTES
For best flavor, baby leaf chard needs consistent moisture and mild weather. Birds love tender young seedlings,so protect them as necessary with netting or floating row covers. This attractive edible will also grow well in pots at least 18 to 20 in. across to snip as needed for salads or stirfry.
HARVEST AND USE
To harvest by the “cut and come again” method: when plants are 4 to 5 in. tall, cut as much as you need, by using scissors to shear off leaves 1 to 2 in. above the soil level. Water well and fertilize lightly and plants will regrow for several more cuttings. These tender, crisp and juicy baby leaves are delicious in fresh salads. Or stirfry, braise or sauté very quickly for healthy, tasty greens.
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Lettuce Crunchy Trio – Blush Batavians – Renee’s Garden
$4.79Add to cartThis special mix of three premium French Batavian lettuces combines sweet taste with tender but crispy texture and great garden performance in both hot and cold weather. The colorful trio contains intensely red “Chrystal,” bright green, wavy-leaved “Soprane” and softly red-tinged “Rossia.” Bred especially for the fresh market, these heavy, beautiful rosettes of delicious leaves are perfect for luscious, satisfying salads, in sandwiches or wherever you want big crunchy leaves full of flavor.
Equal parts: Rossia, Chrystal & Soprane
Approx: 650 Seeds.
Non GMO
START SEEDS OUTDOORS
In cool, early spring weather, start seeds in finely worked soil in full sun. Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep and 1 inch apart in rows 6 to 8 inches apart or broadcast thinly in beds and cover lightly. Tend carefully and keep evenly moist. Gradually thin seedlings to stand 10 to 12 inches apart to allow heads room to mature. Make several sowings a few weeks apart until summer weather turns hot for a constantly maturing supply. Plant again in late summer for fall harvesting.
GROWING NOTES
Lettuce thrives best in cool conditions with consistent moisture. Weed, water and thin carefully for best quality heads. If birds are attracted to young seedlings, cover them with floating row covers or netting.
HARVEST AND USE
Savor earliest thinnings in spring salads. Then harvest by cutting entire mature heads or picking outside leaves after plants are well established. To extend planting into hotter weather, sow new seeds in containers in light shade. Transplant seedlings into the garden, shading for a few days and harvest heads while still young. Tasty French Batavian lettuces form heavy rosettes of big crunchy leaves that tolerate both hot and cold weather well. Enjoy them with any kind of dressing from a simple vinaigrette to a rich, creamy Gorgonzola. Their crispy texture is also perfect in sandwiches or tacos.
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Lettuce French Red Leaf – Redina Organic – Renee’s Garden
$6.89Add to cartHighly ornamental, very large rosettes of frilled & ruffled deep red leaves with hidden emerald hearts. Tasty, eye-catching and disease-resistant French lettuce for all seasons.
Approx: 850 Seeds.
Non GMO
START SEEDS OUTDOORS
In cool early spring weather, start seeds in finely worked soil in full sun. Sow 1/4 inch deep and 2 inches apart in rows 6 to 8 inches apart and cover lightly. Tend carefully and keep evenly moist. Gradually thin out extra seedlings, leaving remaining plants standing 12 inches apart so lettuces have room to size up and fully mature into big butterhead rosettes. For a constant supply, make several sowings a few weeks apart until summer weather turns hot. Plant again in late summer for fall harvest.
GROWING NOTES
Lettuce thrives in cool conditions with consistent moisture. Weed, water and be sure to thin carefully to proper spacing for best quality heavy heads. If birds are attracted to young seedlings, cover with floating row covers or netting. Make a shade structure in hotter climates to extend the growing season.
HARVEST AND USE
Savor young thinnings in your first spring salads. Then harvest outside leaves as needed, or let plants mature and cut well-filled out heads. Be sure to thin properly and keep evenly moist for sweet tasting, full heads. Pull and discard or compost over-mature plants if they begin to elongate (“bolt”) in hot weather as leaves turn bitter at this stage.
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Lettuce Summer Bouquet – European Reds & Greens – Renee’s Garden
$5.19Add to cartOur blend of new lettuces is selected for exceptional heat tolerance, striking ornamental beauty and wonderful flavor. Dutch Redina has loose-leaf rosettes with ruffled ruby leaves tapering to speckled green centers. Batavian Nevada’s broad heads of shiny rich green leaves are known for their sweet taste and juicy texture. Stunning French Cardinale has large vase shaped heads of crispy-sweet leaves with gorgeous burgundy edges and green hearts. Plant this summer bouquet to please your eye and palate.
Equal parts: Redina, Nevada, Cardinale
Approx: 600 Seeds.
Non GMO
START SEEDS OUTDOORS
In cool early spring weather, start seeds in finely worked soil in full sun. Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep and 1 inch apart in rows 6 to 8 inches apart or broadcast thinly in beds and cover lightly. Tend carefully and keep evenly moist. Gradually thin seedlings to stand 10 to 12 inches apart to allow heads room to mature. Make several sowings a few weeks apart until summer weather turns hot for a constantly maturing supply. Plant again in late summer for fall harvesting.
GROWING NOTES
Lettuce thrives in cool conditions with consistent moisture. Weed, water and thin carefully for best quality heads. If birds are attracted to young seedlings, cover them with floating row covers or netting.
HARVEST AND USE
Savor early young thinnings in your first spring salads. Then harvest plants either by picking outside leaves after plants are well established or by cutting mature heads. To extend the lettuce season into hotter weather, sow seeds indoors with a strong light source, or outside in containers in light shade. Transplant young seedlings into the garden, shading for a few days. Harvest while still young for best flavor. Pull and discard or compost over-mature plants if they begin to elongate (“bolt”) and get bitter in hot weather.
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Lettuce Heirloom – Merveille de Quattre Saisons – Renee’s Garden
$5.19Add to cartThis centuries-old French heirloom bibb lettuce has big heads of radiant color with beautiful ruby-red leaves that surround tightly folded green hearts. Marveille is a visual treat that is wonderfully ornamental in the garden. This cherished favorite of many generations will please your palate with large heavy rosettes of crispy, fine-flavored leaves. We import our selected cultivar of Marveille from Europe, because it reliably produces an abundance of big, heavy heads with a particularly lovely color, form and flavor.
Approx: 1050 Seeds.
Non GMO
START SEEDS OUTDOORS
In cool early spring weather, start seeds in finely worked soil in full sun. Sow 1/4 inch deep and 1 inch apart in rows 6 to 8 inches apart and cover lightly. Tend carefully and keep evenly moist. Gradually thin seedlings out by cutting them with scissors, leaving remaining plants to stand 12 inches apart so heads have room to fully size up and mature. For a constant supply, make several sowings a few weeks apart until summer weather turns hot. Plant again in late summer for fall harvest.
GROWING NOTES
Lettuce thrives in cool conditions with consistent moisture. Weed, water and thin carefully for best quality heads. If birds are attracted to the young seedlings, cover them with floating row covers or netting.
HARVEST AND USE
Savor young thinnings in your first spring salads. Then harvest plants by cutting mature heads when they feel firm and well-filled out. Be sure to thin properly and keep evenly moist for sweet tasting, full heads. Pull and discard or compost over-mature plants if they begin to elongate (“bolt”) in hot weather as leaves turn bitter at this stage.